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1990 Yamaha DT200R advice

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  • #16
    Originally posted by DirtClunker View Post
    Borescope/Endoscope is a great tool, and they are CHEAP. And the cheap ones are good enough for the local bike tinkerer. Here is one for $14 http://www.dx.com/p/6-led-7mm-lens-a...9#.V_aNqfArLEI


    Digital calipers are also a must have, and the cheap ones work just fine for putzing around with bikes. $19 http://www.dx.com/p/digital-150mm-ca...6#.V_aOCfArLEI
    Looking in the cyl with a scope is one of the quickest ways to confirm cyl integrity on a two stroke. We also vacuum the crank case to test crank seal integrity.

    http://www.dansmc.com/vacuum_testing.htm

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Shuswap View Post
      Good method, also you can attach length of clear hose to the bowl drain, if equipped with one, and wrap it up the side of the carb to visually confirm the fuel level.

      Further......if dynamic is taken literally, then I'd call it pretty dang dynamic if the engine was running at the same time! Of course any error with this method could result in a very dangerous fuel-fed fire. I won't being doing this, can't see the point
      Danger is my middle name I guess you have never seen me ride

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      • #18
        I'd sure be interested in a diagnostic flow chart or sequence for 2t. I have an old 200exc that sometimes makes me go nuts, and it acts up halfway through the ride when i'm 20 miles out.
        I say go for it.

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        • #19
          " no one is compelled to read any of my posts."
          I feel the same way bro!
          you know-once your over the hill,you tend to pick up speed!

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          • #20
            Oh Yeah!

            All right! Wow! A response, or rather, responses!!! Wonderful. Though I do not have a bore scope, I will get one as that is an excellent idea. Do have a vernier caliper though. I kinda like testing my rusty brain by using a non digital one, though. My battery keeps dying, anyway.
            I was getting 80 k.m./tankful, til reserve. That put me at 10l/100k.m.! I had pulled my carb off but didn't follow any real procedure in cleaning it, the first time(s). After reading all of the advice, I agreed with your responses and went back into the carb. The float level was out, by over a 1/4". I hadn't cleaned the emulsion tube, which seemed to have petrified fine dirt on it. The pilot air jet, or orifice beside it was also partially plugged. Hadn't taken the pilot air screw out to clean. Did that. Made sure that all of the other jets were good. Also, all other passages. Actually followed the manual and disassembled/reassembled all the parts. I even blew into the fuel line to test the needle and seat. I am amazed at how well it actually seals!
            Then the test. I started it up and wanted to see if it ran nicely. Idle was weak and I still needed to give it a small dose of throttle to keep it running. Then, once partially warmed up I went for a ride. I think a quartet of two stroke friendly Angels with small trumpets played a tune as I cleanly accelarated by them! Wow! She accelerated hard and clean. Ran at a steady RPM. I could blast up to 80 km/h like nothing. It was quite cold, so I went up to 100km/h once only. Did a lot of roll on testing, also tried to go at a steady pace. Like a new bike again. Sweet!
            Now the bad news... It snowed today. Grrrrr! Hopefully, will be able to get a ride in before winter sets in.
            Any help in tuning a two stroke carb would be very much appreciated. Your help up to this point IS appreciated.
            My lesson from this is to not just open up the part and go through what I see to go through. I have a service manual, but chose to ignore it. I never followed ALL of the steps outlined. I figured the float height really couldn't be out of spec., as I had never ever changed it! Somehow, it did change though. Though I looked at the needle and seat and found them to be o.k., I was getting desperate, so I spent $40.00 for a new one from Yamaha!(Never knew the "blow" test!) Got a spare now, anyway! I do appreciate every one who posted. Got me thinking, then acting. Cheers!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by what broke now View Post
              I'd sure be interested in a diagnostic flow chart or sequence for 2t. I have an old 200exc that sometimes makes me go nuts, and it acts up halfway through the ride when i'm 20 miles out.
              I say go for it.
              We could put the full force of the DSBC brain trust on it but need a bit more info on the fault

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              • #22
                Originally posted by what broke now View Post
                I'd sure be interested in a diagnostic flow chart or sequence for 2t. I have an old 200exc that sometimes makes me go nuts, and it acts up halfway through the ride when i'm 20 miles out.
                I say go for it.
                http://www.cyclepedia.com/two-stroke...hooting-guide/

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by gt750 View Post
                  I was getting 80 k.m./tankful, til reserve. That put me at 10l/100k.m.! <snip>

                  I have a service manual, but chose to ignore it. I never followed ALL of the steps outlined. I figured the float height really couldn't be out of spec., as I had never ever changed it! Somehow, it did change though. Though I looked at the needle and seat and found them to be o.k., I was getting desperate, so I spent $40.00 for a new one from Yamaha!(Never knew the "blow" test!) Got a spare now, anyway! I do appreciate every one who posted. Got me thinking, then acting. Cheers!
                  Glad to hear you got your bike going. For reference, my DT200 consistently gets 4.7 l/100km primarily city street riding. Last ride I rode about 150 km and it took about 7 litres to refill the tank. For an old two smoke with short final drive that's not too bad.

                  Too bad about the snow. Hopefully you have set yourself up for some good spring riding then. Don't neglect to do some winterizing otherwise all your hard work on the carb will be undone. You don't have to do much to have a big impact. Either drain your gas tank entirely and swish some oil in there or top up the tank and put some fuel stabilizer in there (I like Seafoam). Drain the fuel from the carb float bowl. Remove the spark plug and fog the engine with some oil (again Seafoam is your friend). Put your battery on a trickle charger to keep the plate from sulphating together. Doesn't take long to do these few basic things.

                  You can do some other things too. For example, at the end of your last while the bike is still hot, drain the crankcase and coolant and refill. No point having old oil sit in there all winter. Take the opportunity to clean your chain with some kerosene. Maybe I'm preaching to the choir and you already know these things.

                  I've had a terrible time trying to find a manual for these old bikes. You wouldn't happen to have a PDF version of the manual would you?
                  Sporting my favourite two stroke dual sport - a Yamaha DT200.

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                  • #24
                    I have a photocopied manual for my 96 DT200 someplace.. It was displaced when moving. If I find it I'll let you know.

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                    • #25
                      96 dt200

                      After sitting for a few months, with fuel stabilizer, drained carb and a full tank, I turned on the fuel valve and gas was streaming out the float bowl vent. So I pulled off the carb, checked and cleaned it. No longer floods but will not idle unless the cold start lever is left on. After looking at the above posted flow chart, I'll guess it is the Slow jet or air passage clogged or restricted. Any comments before I pull off the carb once again?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by red_si View Post

                        Glad to hear you got your bike going. For reference, my DT200 consistently gets 4.7 l/100km primarily city street riding. Last ride I rode about 150 km and it took about 7 litres to refill the tank. For an old two smoke with short final drive that's not too bad.

                        Too bad about the snow. Hopefully you have set yourself up for some good spring riding then. Don't neglect to do some winterizing otherwise all your hard work on the carb will be undone. You don't have to do much to have a big impact. Either drain your gas tank entirely and swish some oil in there or top up the tank and put some fuel stabilizer in there (I like Seafoam). Drain the fuel from the carb float bowl. Remove the spark plug and fog the engine with some oil (again Seafoam is your friend). Put your battery on a trickle charger to keep the plate from sulphating together. Doesn't take long to do these few basic things.

                        You can do some other things too. For example, at the end of your last while the bike is still hot, drain the crankcase and coolant and refill. No point having old oil sit in there all winter. Take the opportunity to clean your chain with some kerosene. Maybe I'm preaching to the choir and you already know these things.

                        I've had a terrible time trying to find a manual for these old bikes. You wouldn't happen to have a PDF version of the manual would you?
                        For a PDF Manual, go to "ITForum" for a download.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          The ITForum has the owners manuals, but where does one find a service manual?

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                          • #28
                            Here's a link to be able to download the DT125R manual. This is what Yamaha bases the Manual on. All they do is add an "Supplement" to the front of the 125 manual. I have asked someone to email it to me. When I get it I can fwd. it to you.

                            http://www.mediafire.com/download/7z...ice_Manual.pdf

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                            • #29
                              If someone needs a DT200R manual I'd need to send it to you as it is too big. P.M. me with an email address.

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