Beta 400 service intervals...

Finneginsfast

Finneginsfast

New member
So outta curiosity i took a one for a spin and instantly fell in love. I read that oil and filter needs to be changed every 3 hrs though, are you kiddin' me?! I understand tight tolerances etc and a small crank case but really, how do you all manage that?

Sure would love to consider one but in all reality it just seems like I wouldn't be able to manage that unfortunately. Tell me how you do it...or if you adhere to it.
 
O

offworlder

Moderator
Yup, Beta rules.
Regarding service, other than a single oil change, I've dont nothing but crank the throttle on my 09 Beta 450 ! I'm essentially changing the oil/filters every 500km, which costs just 1.25 litres of the good stuff, and 2 oil filters.
While the 2009s and older used KTM's RFS (racing four stroke) engine, The 2010 and newer models use Beta's own engine design, which has separate engine and transmission oil reservoirs. The smaller reservoirs may require more frequent maintenance.

PS: Where/which Beta did you try out ?
 
Farp

Farp

Active member
Finneginsfast said:
So outta curiosity i took a one for a spin and instantly fell in love. I read that oil and filter needs to be changed every 3 hrs though, are you kiddin' me?! I understand tight tolerances etc and a small crank case but really, how do you all manage that?

Sure would love to consider one but in all reality it just seems like I wouldn't be able to manage that unfortunately. Tell me how you do it...or if you adhere to it.
Click to expand...

The service intervals recommended for my 2009 Beta 400RR (KTM 400RFS engine) are every 15 hrs running time for oil and filter change. The 3 hrs interval is only for the first change just to make sure there are no bits of metal or other mfg debris left in the engine to clog up the filters. There are two oil filters and two oil strainers that should be changed/cleaned every time you service the bike. The 15 hour interval is recommended when the bike is being used for competition and you are constantly revving the crap out of it. If you are using it for recreational riding and taking it much easier then the intervals can be extended somewhat. I shut the bike off every time I stop and use the moving time log on my GPS to keep track of the engine run time. I find that on a long day of trail riding I will put between 3 and 4 hours on the bike when the engine is actually running. You'd be amazed at how much of a typical days riding you are actually stopped. Quite often I find my stopped time is equal or more than my run time. A good rule of thumb is if you take your Beta out for a ride every Sunday you need to change the oil and filters once a month.

John
 
Strongleftleg

Strongleftleg

Member
There are the manual services intervals then there are the real-world intervals. If you plan on racing a high-performance small displacement engine then consider the manuals specs. For typical dualsport use, you can easy go 10-15hrs between oil changes. Typical use is a mix of pavement, FSR, trails. The odd wide open burst, but mostly using the bottom 2/3rds of the throttle.

Dont be scared off by manual specs.
 
Last edited:
C

cactusreid

Active member
finnegin: there are a couple of good you tube vids of doing valve adjusts on a rfs motor. 10 mm lock nut,small flat blade screw driver and a feeler guage,and your good to go. in the time you can moan- aw sheet that looks like a lot of work-you can have the seat and tank off,drain the rads and pull at least one if not both for good access at least the first time you do it. pull out the crankshaft lock bolt, leave the washer on the bike stand, pull the plug, drop a straw into the plug hole, kick it into 5th or sixth ,find tdc and screw the lockup allen bolt back in to hold everthing at tdc on the firing stroke. loosen the 10 mm lock nuts under the valve covers,slip in a feeler guage,snug up/check that your not to tight now,repeat 3 more times and your done brotha! shop shmop! find a guy with a ktm ( this is the hard part- yah right) and learn/do two bikes at the same time checking each other. once a year if your an average rider,twice if you ride the wheels of the bike like i do.
 
Last edited:
Farp

Farp

Active member
cactusreid said:
finnegin: there are a couple of good you tube vids of doing valve adjusts on a rfs motor. 10 mm lock nut,small flat blade screw driver and a feeler guage,and your good to go. in the time you can moan- aw sheet that looks like a lot of work-you can have the seat and tank off,drain the rads and pull at least one if not both for good access at least the first time you do it. pull out the crankshaft lock bolt, leave the washer on the bike stand, pull the plug, drop a straw into the plug hole, kick it into 5th or sixth ,find tdc and screw the lockup allen bolt back in to hold everthing at tdc on the firing stroke. loosen the 10 mm lock nuts under the valve covers,slip in a feeler guage,snug up/check that your not to tight now,repeat 3 more times and your done brotha! shop shmop! find a guy with a ktm ( this is the hard part- yah right) and learn/do two bikes at the same time checking each other. once a year if your an average rider,twice if you ride the wheels of the bike like i do.
Click to expand...

You can do the valve adjustment without draining the rads. It's easy to push them out of the way. You also don't need to pull the crankshaft lock bolt and screw the lockup bolt in. Just bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke, set the tappet clearance to 5 thou and you're good to go. It's really a quick and simple thing to do.

John
 
broxy

broxy

Member
Farp said:
You can do the valve adjustment without draining the rads. It's easy to push them out of the way. You also don't need to pull the crankshaft lock bolt and screw the lockup bolt in. Just bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke, set the tappet clearance to 5 thou and you're good to go. It's really a quick and simple thing to do.

John
Click to expand...

Might be a few differences between the Beta and KTM, but it should be very easy.

 
2

2stroked

New member
A lore room on the Beta motor, the cover is the whole top of the motor, looks like the Beta would be easier to get at but it has shims so it is a little more work.
 
W

Wildman

New member
The beta system with shims is pretty much maintenance free. 2 seasons and over 200 hours of riding with a few races and valves are still in spec. I change the oils every 20 hours.
 
2

2stroked

New member
Coming from you Wildman that is a testament to how good the Beta is.
The shim thing is a pain compared to the screw adjustment but the shims are
the choice for most bikes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top