Good mechanic in the Abbotsford area?

tomcycle

tomcycle

Past President DSBC 2004 -2018
Staff member
I am with Vortexman, besides with the word Vortec right in his username, that has to account for something, right?

Just the same, if you want to know what your engine is doing (or not doing) dyno will be the way to go. Quick and easy to get you to the point where you can fine tune the carb yourself for your type of riding and conditions. This is not rocket science, well it might be?

If you have the time and got access to all the little parts you need, then screw around with your carb. Me I prefer to be riding my bike, not spending too much time dinking around with little screws and clips. Probably why I only ride bikes with Fuel Injection now.

Best of luck whichever way you decide to go.

T
 
C

cactusreid

Active member
Well, I bought me one of them there fuelie-injected bikes this spring,and it ran like crap! What the manufactutors have to do too bikes to get them through california emmisions is enough to make you shudder. Mine is a street legal ktm exc, not an off road rum bike. But that being said, it was also pretty easy to get it remapped to XCW specs, strip the un- wanted plumbing off of it, and crank up the tps a bit so it now runs like ktm intended it to.
 
Ti welder

Ti welder

New member
Yept xr is rum and was so lean it ran hotter than the surface of the sun, and the rad fan I added had this nice factory bracket on the back of the rad, for California air pump! Can you bloody imagine how poorly that would run?
took out all the restrict its out and added LOTS of fuel and it actually runs
all because why? Ever traveled behind a smelly.... I mean Harley ;)
 
V

vortexman

New member
Guy with the white coat, jetting method non dyno

Guy with the white coat, jetting method non dyno

Do-Boy said:
define "properly."

Ideally or optimally, sure. But there is a history of thousands upon thousands of people that have successfully rejetted a car or motorcycle without a dyno. Myself included. I was able to learn from resources like youtube and google to modify my old bike, then rejet it to start every kick and run with more power than stock and better throttle response. Sure it would have been quicker to be able to test on a rolling road. But your original claim is pretty condescending and negative. I don't mean to brag here, but I want to motivate people who do have a desire to tackle issues.
Click to expand...


I am the guy with the white coat and if I had just $.02 for every customer that dropped a carb and or bike off to me that they re jetted that would not run correctly anymore I could buy a house in West Van.

A properly jetted bike is a compromise of power, performance, drivability, economy and emissions. My retail rate is $125.00 per hour and I repair machines that every one else has given up on. When I see posts on DSBC about KTM electrical this and XYZ jetting on that, I sometimes wonder if there are any professional technicians left.

I do know one or two but they are smarter than me and only give paid advice at the service department counter. If a carbureted machine is to run correctly you must listen to people who have jetted and tuned machines, not just read internet posts from experts who have Googled fixes or my favorite the You tube pro's.

You must learn to read spark plugs and have a quiet straight stretch of road to do neutral power runs then shut down the bike pull the plug and look at the porcelain for colour. This is the only way short of dyno tuning.

Every circuit in the carb affects the total spectrum of load regime and must work in concert. I have posted on this with links as it is a very mis understood area of mechanics.

We did meet on Kookipi, I ride a camo KLR.


Read this before you pm me

http://www.mainjet.com.au/tech_tips.php
 
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Ti welder

Ti welder

New member
Plus one on the yammaha jetting
had a banshee once that I modified the crap out of, had to tune each flat slide independent, what a pain in the ass!
spent many hours with a plug wrench pissing about, and we'd ride at -30 on snowmobile trail to plus 30 over the swamp
Got into expansion chamber development and design there for a bit as my old cz didn't have one, or transfer ports for that matter (well watched and listened anyway)
The game of tuning air fuel is fun, time consuming, and can be costly
I'd pay the guy in the white coat, it's cheeper:)
Btw, to who ever it was that made the comment about negative and 'condo sending', I'v found that most people that actually have experience are kinda tired of all the Google engineers who do their homework, and expect top rate to educate themselves. How did we survive, worse yet, how will they?
 
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Ti welder

Ti welder

New member
As vortex was saying it's simple, three throttle positions, pull the clutch and kill the engine at that throttle, pull the plug inspect the porcelain colour
its that easy, or hard... Each change has effect everywhere
lean fat lean is the hardest to deal with
plug heat range type also plays so called half sizes... It is fun but very time consuming
my banshee was so finicky at the end but would eat cr 250s and most everything including clutches, swing arms bearings ect :)
 
TW_rider

TW_rider

Member
Have you visited the DR650 forums or even the DR thread at ADVRider?
There is a wealth of information to be had there.

I also have a DR with a TM40 that I bought from ProCycle, so it came jetted for MY specs (stock exhaust, opened airbox), and is probably a bit rich, but I leave it as it is.
Something a lot of TM40 buyers overlook is the adapter rings for the intake boots, the lack of which causes air leaks.
For the record, my header will glow at idle
 
Do-Boy

Do-Boy

New member
Ti welder said:
As vortex was saying it's simple, three throttle positions, pull the clutch and kill the engine at that throttle, pull the plug inspect the porcelain colour
its that easy, or hard... Each change has effect everywhere
Click to expand...

Which is why you start at the Main jet and work your way down. Jetting carbs is like learning a new language. Many people give up before they're fluent or at least conversational. But with the wealth of information online now, you just need to keep plugging away at it until it CLICKS. I think the problem is that carb issues aren't always perfectly linear.
 
S

Shuswap

Member
I think there is a movement away from plug chops for 4 strokes, pretty tough to read them as opposed to the 2 smokes. There is so much base line info on setting up carbs, especially on model-specific sites that it isn't that hard to get close enough that the bike runs just fine.

To the OP: suggest you try...... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/25-dr/ ........and get some answers

Pretty easy to overthink this!
 
B

bkoz

Member
Shuswap said:
I think there is a movement away from plug chops for 4 strokes, pretty tough to read them as opposed to the 2 smokes. There is so much base line info on setting up carbs, especially on model-specific sites that it isn't that hard to get close enough that the bike runs just fine.

To the OP: suggest you try...... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/25-dr/ ........and get some answers

Pretty easy to overthink this!
Click to expand...

The type of fuel you run can really skew a plug chop. Additives and ethanol can give funny results.
 
Ti welder

Ti welder

New member
Someone enlighten me
it's been years since I messed with this, I know hi octane burns rich and lower octane lean, what do you mean by additives screwing with the light tan colour desired and how?
i know we are beating this to death but am curious? Or just dumb, not sure which
the higher the octane the longer and cooler the burn, thus more power?
i believe this is the reason for hi ratio fuel oil mixture in two stroke(less octane degradation)
i have always chosen chevron 94 because of no eth or additives and it just runs nice
Seriously fellas, am I out to lunch?
vortex?
no I don't mind being corrected, life is school one lesson at a time :)
 
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B

bkoz

Member
Ti welder said:
Someone enlighten me
it's been years since I messed with this, I know hi octane burns rich and lower octane lean, what do you mean by additives screwing with the light tan colour desired and how?
i know we are beating this to death but am curious? Or just dumb, not sure which
the higher the octane the longer and cooler the burn, thus more power?
i believe this is the reason for hi ratio fuel oil mixture in two stroke(less octane degradation)
i have always chosen chevron 94 because of no eth or additives and it just runs nice
Seriously fellas, am I out to lunch?
vortex?
no I don't mind being corrected, life is school one lesson at a time :)
Click to expand...

Some additives will build up on the plug making it hard to discern the color. Ethanol fuels will also give different readings.

Many 2 stroke guys are using the "wet line" method of jetting because of plugs are harder to read with today's fuels.
 
S

Shuswap

Member
Ti welder: Quick note on the pricey Chevron 94, my F700 pings worse on it, when rolling on throttle heavily, than it does on Costco's 91 octane, makes ya wonder.
 
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TW_rider

TW_rider

Member
SHELL Premium Gold is 91 octane, without the ethanol...but you've gotta read the pumps. Some of the Interior and Okanagan Shell's still use E in their premiums.
94 seems a bit high.
 
B

bkoz

Member
Shuswap said:
Ti welder: Quick note on the pricey Chevron 94, my F700 pings worse on it, when rolling on throttle heavily, than it does on Costco's 91 octane, makes ya wonder.
Click to expand...

But my race bike (YZ250FX) with a low end torque map loaded has 0 pinging with Chevron 94 but will rattle on Shell 91.....
 
V

vortexman

New member
bkoz said:
Some additives will build up on the plug making it hard to discern the color. Ethanol fuels will also give different readings.

Many 2 stroke guys are using the "wet line" method of jetting because of plugs are harder to read with today's fuels.
Click to expand...

Octane is used to regulate flame propagation in ICE/Gasoline combustion chambers and is a very misunderstood concept. The higher the octane rating the slower the burn (flame front across the top off the piston and higher the combustion chamber temp).

The octane number has nothing to do with mean sea level jetting on carbureted bikes.

http://www.pei.org/wiki/octane-number

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug
 
V

vortexman

New member
bkoz said:
Some additives will build up on the plug making it hard to discern the color. Ethanol fuels will also give different readings.

Many 2 stroke guys are using the "wet line" method of jetting because of plugs are harder to read with today's fuels.
Click to expand...

The Google technicians should really review basic engineering and mechanics before teaching others. Basic flame propagation theory as it still applies today in all internal combustion engines operating on pump gas in North America

http://www.nitc.ac.in/dept/me/jagadeesha/Internal_Combustion_Engines/Chapter2.pdf
 
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