My DR with stock BST carb & exhaust runs great (I think) after adjusting the idle fuel screw, lifting the needle 1-clip position & pulling the snorkel. No bog or exhaust pop - Vortexman - want to take it for a spin to see if I've got it right?
While I'd like to ditch the heavy stock exhaust, Kagia's situation of having an unrideable bike after installing the DRriders popular performance tweaks tells me to keep it stock - and think about buying a Beta, Husky or KTM if I want more power and less weight.
I never try to mod any of my bikes induction systems as I know what is involved to get it done right which is very subjective statement. We (Kaiga) now have a carb with an accelerator pump circuit as well as a completely re engineered induction and exhaust system.
I am booked up until mid December so I cannot take on any work right now but if this was on a work order I would basically ask the customer how much money he wishes to spend to achieve the perceived benefit if there is one.
This does not factor in emotion which seems to be a main driver on these types of jobs. If one actually reads the Pro Cycle Literature it plainly states this mod at best will give crisper acceleration due to the TM40 accel pump circuit but as I stated several times for every action in carb and induction mods there is an equal and opposite reaction , usually loss of mileage or drivability.
Anecdotal evidence is not applicable due to the many factors that go into actual operating conditions of the engine so reports of more power better performance on forums cannot be used as a base line for our DR project
So I would tape up the holes made in the airbox, put the old carb on,
INSTALL FRESH GASOLINE AS FUEL WILL START TO DESTABILIZE AFTER JUST A FEW WEEKS and start from there. Then I would confirm TM40 configuration and base line recommended jetting from Pro Cycle. I would install the TM40 carb and confirm no vac leaks and exhaust leaks.
(Yes I actually use an in lb torque wrench for this) This assumes the bike ran fine before the mods. If not I would use standard leak down test as well as dynamic compression tests to confirm cyl integrity (pretty standard stuff) making sure the bike was running ok before bolting on mods.
Once these steps were taken if I still had problems it would be working with ProCycle tech line and dyno tuning.
I guess I had better put this link in to resonance airbox theory just another reason why I never cut up air boxes
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Airboxes.html