stock muffler cleanout holes klr650

tractor

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The stock muffler on a KLR650 has 3 bolts that can be removed to clean the carbon out of the muffler, 2 of these on mine are in place with the heads twisted off and the other is tight enough that I would likely twist the head off getting it out.

So. the book says to do this every 3 to 5000kms, do people actually do that and does it help?

It sounds reasonable but I have never had a bike with those access holes??

How bad does the muffler get if its not done?
 
O

old trials guy

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I have seen similar cleanouts on many bikes fitted with USFS approved spark arrestors. I think the idea is that the trapped carbon particles can be cleaned out but in our damp BC weather what you usually end up with is a bunch of highly acidic, wet crap sitting right on top of the cleanout. It only takes a short time for that to rust the bolts solid. You will see most mufflers rot out in that exact location.

The best cure is extended rides which get the muffler nice and hot which drives out the moisture. Short trips contribute to moisture build up. The more restrictive muffler systems often don't get hot enough back at the spark arrester. It created a wholeindustry making aftermarket exhaust systems.

I would be tempted to drill a small hole in the cover and see what comes out. Maybe run it for a bit to blow any loose stuff out the hole. Pump some light oil or WD in the hole to help stop the corrosion and seal it up with a sheet metal screw. It might smoke for a while but that is better than a rusted out muffler.

I know some guys that used to put oil in their CB750 pipes prior to winter storage to keep them from rusting out. It was a real problem on the old four pipe models.

otg
 

tractor

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I was going to drill the broken bolts out and tap in a new set of threads, but I could just drill a hole and but in a sheetmetal screw.

I do remember the old 4 pipe and even 4 into 2 rust problems but the early honda fours had shitty pipes with seems in them, I had a 500/4 and the pipes were gone at 3 years, so I put these little 10 inch long peices of pipe (chromed) on each header pipe, sweet sound.

Anyway I can see an ftermarket pipe in my future.
 

Big Booger

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I have a couple new, heavy, boat anchor stock klr mufflers you are welcome to one.
 

tractor

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I have no reason to believe that mine is not ok, I am just not used to the nasaly popping noise it makes when it runs, it sounds like all stock KLR's but not what I have been used to.
 

volcon

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Popping could be due to themixture being too lean. Take a look at the spark plug and compare it to a chart like this onehttp://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html

You canenrich the mixture byplacing one or two small (#40) washers under the needle and open the pilot jet a turn or so. In KLRspeak this is called the 22 cent mod. A jet kit would do the same thing.


I'vetried the exhaust clean out holes without much change or noticable improvment. And yes, I broke both bolt heads off and had to drill/re-tap.

I found the easiest fix was to install a pipe and jet kit. It goes better nowor, at least sound likeit does.
 

Jeckyll

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Don't worry about it.

1) the KLR stock exhaust is 20 lbs, losing a bit of weight to rust would be a significant performance improvement
2) you can always find another stocker to replace the existing one for cheap
3) I've not heard of this being a problem for KLRs in the past.

I just don't think it's worth the effort.

It's a KLR, change the oil and ride the hell out of it. Enjoy. Repeat as required :)
 

tractor

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Yes your right, I was just going thru the list of things to do, since it looked simple I tried it, I can see an after market can some day, not now though
 

Buckethead

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While we're on the topic of KLR mufflers, I'll throw this out there in the hope that it helps someone:

My old KLR developed a problem where it lost all power at more than half throttle. I kept going through all of the usual suspects: fuel, carb, spark plug, electrical connections, coil, cdi, pulled the exhaust and blew through with a small vac to check for blockage - found nothing. Was driving me &%^#$ crazy. I eventually broke down and took it to a dealer (which was another nightmare). Their story went from "We'll have it for you this afternoon", to "A couple days" to "Next week", to "We don't know what is wrong. We want to rebuild the top end and see if that fixes it". (Leakdown was on the lower side (bike was an '89) but was still within spec.). No thanks.

I brought it back home (with a massive oil leak from a stripped valve cover bolt - Thanks dealer) and tore into the top end my self. After reassembling, I decided to check the exhaust one more time. This time I used a rag to get a good seal on the hose from my larger shop vac. As soon as I started the shop vac, I heard a "click" from the muffler and the vac bogged down. Shut down the vac, and another "click" came from the muffler. Out came a cutting disk and I opened up the side of the muffler. What I found was that a baffle had come loose, and would swing aft with higher exhaust pressures (from an open throttle) and would plug perfectly the final exhaust tube out the back of the muffler choking the engine. Reduce the pressure and it would swing back onto normal position. Faaaaaaaak Me.

Being a cheap bastard (and the bike being an 89 KLR) I welded the baffles back into place (with lots of bead), and then welded the cover back onto the muffler. The bike ran like new.

Now when ever I hear a KLR with a "tweety" stock exhaust, the hair on the back of my neck stands up. I have pics around somewhere if anybody is interested.

Happy muffling,

Matthew
 

tractor

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Interesting, stories like that are always scary for everyone involved. Now I will always hear tweeting when the bike is running, thanks!!:spl:
 

tractor

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To late, I woke up violently, twice last night, I thought I heard tweeting.:shock:
 

kchip

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Very interesting!!! I have a KLR which tweets and looses power at about 2/3 throttle going uphill. Been trying to figure what is wrong for about a year and a half. Dealer was useless. You mentioned that you have pictures...any chance of getting a hold of them??? Thanks.
 

Buckethead

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Sorry about the poor pic quality. This is the back end of the muffler with the baffle in it's normal position. Exhaust flows from left to right through the curved tube, circles around in the last chamber then exits through the straight tube on the right side. The cut in the final tube was just me cutting too deep when cutting into the muffler.


[align=center]
KLR%20003small.JPG
[/align]

[align=center]Add some exhaust pressure and: CLICK! No flow, no power.[/align]

[align=center]
KLR%20006small.JPG
[/align]

[align=center]Lower the pressure and it would return to it's normal position. It took me a couple of months (and more than a few choice expletives) to figure this one out.[/align]

[align=center]Cutting it open and fixing the baffles (others were loose too) wasn't hard. I cut into the wheel side of the muffler so that my franken muffler wasn't too noticeable. [/align]
[align=center]Fire away if you have any questions. [/align]
[align=left]Cheers,[/align]
[align=left]Matthew [/align]
 

The Pope

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lose the tweeter!

or tell your kids you were tweeting - they might think you're cool.
 
R

RSH

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Booger, how much do ya want for the mufflers?
 
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