'06 KLR 650 - Choke Cable Stuck

[Kitimat KLR]

Seems that when I use the choke and then want to close it, the cable-sleeve-end slips out of the H/bar lever housing and the engine runs wild at 3500rpm. If I'm lucky I can jiggle and tug the cable and it will drop to ~1100rpm idle ...other wise it's Killswitch Engage. Usually I only need a little choke when the engine is cold.

I've taken the cable off at both ends and it seems fine...no snags and no binding or route pinch points. The "plunger" thingy at the Carb end of the cable also seems fine.
I wondered if the plastic connector to the Carb was coming undone....but it all happened again after reinstalling.
The cable pops out far beyond the adjuster nut limits ...probably about 3/8" beyond
I've got H/bar risers installed so all the cables are a verging on tight (but not tugging) at full steering lock. Maybe I've stretched something?
Should I simply swap out the cable?
Anyone know what bits come with the OE choke cable?
Appreciate any thoughts / suggestions

 

[old trials guy]

Did you lube the cable? Sounds like a dry cable hanging up in the housing.

otg

 

[volcon]

The choke cables on the two KLRs I've had were both about 3/8" longer than what was needed. I found that the choke cables would sometimes hang up a bit if there was too much slack. I adjusted for about 1/8" slack, re-routed the cables and all has been well. So, you might just need to re-route the cable. Also, check the plunger, spring and plastic nut. It's very easy to damage or cross thread the nut. Note that idle speed is 1300 +/-100RPM.

 

[04klr]

ditto, two klr's, same issue at the lever, for me itsa no biggie, a person should be able to adjust the slack out, tho I've never bothered.

 

[Kitimat KLR]

Thanks for the replies:

1) That's what I was thinking or it was kinked/pinched somewhere. I did lube the cable and it seems free to slide freely but still pops out (?)

2) I agree it was always a little bit loose at the h/bar housing...I'll take it out again, re-lube and try to re-route it.
"Note that idle speed is 1300 +/-100RPM" ....noted ...maybe it's closer to 1200rpm on the Tach - I'll give a little tweek.

3) There's not enough thread left on the h/bar adjuster ...even when its on only a couple turns it will still jump out!

 

[dirtrider]

if the cable is lubed and moves freely then take the plunger out of the carb and give it a good cleening. there is a return spring in there and if the bike had been in heavy rain or water crossings it might be a bit rusty or dirty.

 

[Kitimat KLR]

I'll strip it down again* this week-end and look again at the carb end of it. For my own knowledge & curiosity I should look up about how the "plunger" interacts with the carb itself ....not something I've thought about before.
I noticed that when the cable is bent (curved as it would be when installed) there is some resistance to sliding...so maybe there is something there???

*getting good at this... now I seem to have stripped one of the fuel tank nuts (welded type)

 

[Kitimat KLR]

Has anyone replaced the choke cable plunger with a "fixed" push-pull type that mounts at the carb itself? Read about this in another forum. Said that Kawi Part # 16016 (for a 1996 KLX250) would be a straight swap. I wonder if reaching under the tank and fishing around for the choke knob would be practical? I used have bikes with the choke down there so I guess its not a great problem.
I found that handlebar risers raised the OEM choke lever high enough not to cause any further dents in the gas tank every time I drop the bike! (why is it always the left side?)

 

[edzzed]

I only ever use 1/2 choke and have never lubed the cable, It's a 99 and I bought it new.

 

[Kitimat KLR]

Guess you were "lucky" with the cable ...I tried to keep on top of mine but when I "peeled" it apart it was kinked and rusty... it's a consumable just like the other cables and stuff - you just don't want these to give up when you're out in the bush. As noted in the OP above, I also only needed short / half choke for a cold start. Once when I ripped off the choke mount under h/bars I had to "cold start" ...now how did I do that?!?
By the way, can anyone really get those little clamp-on cable lube things to work? ...I find it simpler and cleaner to "do it by hand" ...

Anyway, the bikes almost back together - still trying decide on a Front rotor or not. Need new pads anyway ...but those Galfer greens sure wear quickly (or I've done more miles than I thought)

 

[old trials guy]

By the way, can anyone really get those little clamp-on cable lube things to work? ...I find it simpler and cleaner to "do it by hand" ...

There is a trick to using the clamp on cable lubers, first, buy the original one, not the cheap knock off ones that dribble all over. Two, when you push the cable into the cable luber, push it all the way in until it bottoms and then pull it back out about 1/8 inch. This allows space for the lube to enter the end of the cable. If you push it in tight to the luber it creates a seal and the cable won't accept lube. It took me a couple of tries to figure out why it didn't work. If you have the other end visible you should see the lubricant bubbling out. If the cable is really bad you might dose it first with WD40 to clean out the crap and then shoot in "Cable Lube".

If well maintained and properly routed even a cable clutch will feel "almost" as light as a hydraulic one. It is amazing how much arm pump that can save you on a long ride.

otg

 

[3stroke]

There is a twin screw clamp cable luber offered now that seems to help with the problem cable end fittings and if the cable leaks when lubing then a bit of electricians tape over the adjusters or wear holes cause its gotta bubble out the other end or no glory ... 3stroke

 

[Norm]

FWIW, the plastic choke fitting which some call a "nut" to retain the choke cable into the carb is available as a separate part as Arctic Cat part number 5507-025. I keep one around as they are frequently broken and a lot of KLRs visit. I've also made some custom wrenches for loosening the fitting.

Some like the plunger type choke unit but it's a recipe for falling over for those of us with short legs. I think my friend is still laughing. I prefer the bar lever and cable. ;-)

Ditto the suggestion regarding the spring &/or water corroding the plunger area.