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Clutch and side stand safety bypass procedure
- Thread starter klrman
- Start date
Yak_KLR650
New member
imported post
imported post
The clutch bypass wasn't clear to me either from Mark's site, so I just pulled the switch apart, cleaned the contacts and gave it lots of dielectric grease. No problems since then.
The side stand was easy - all I did was remove the switch completely. I cut the wires at the top and soldered them together because I could find any spade connectors small enough.
You can do a simpler job by removing the small pin (held in by a cotter key) at the lower end of the switch. That leaves the switch in the permanently closed position. I removed mine because I wanted the space for my relocated fuses.
imported post
The clutch bypass wasn't clear to me either from Mark's site, so I just pulled the switch apart, cleaned the contacts and gave it lots of dielectric grease. No problems since then.
The side stand was easy - all I did was remove the switch completely. I cut the wires at the top and soldered them together because I could find any spade connectors small enough.
You can do a simpler job by removing the small pin (held in by a cotter key) at the lower end of the switch. That leaves the switch in the permanently closed position. I removed mine because I wanted the space for my relocated fuses.
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imported post
From what I understand, you're saying you left your Clutch safety switch in place and just cleaned it so it would not fail unexpectedly? I was thinking of de activating it, but maybe I should just take care of it. Good idea with the side stand, I will do the same thing.
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From what I understand, you're saying you left your Clutch safety switch in place and just cleaned it so it would not fail unexpectedly? I was thinking of de activating it, but maybe I should just take care of it. Good idea with the side stand, I will do the same thing.
Yak_KLR650
New member
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imported post
Actually I cleaned it after it failed:shoot:. but it was a simple fix. The contacts get a little corroded. The procedures on Mark.net are great if you anticipate needing to return it to stock, but if you just want the side stand interlock gone then the way I did it was easy. I can still return it to stock if needed, it just requires a bit of minor soldering.
imported post
Actually I cleaned it after it failed:shoot:. but it was a simple fix. The contacts get a little corroded. The procedures on Mark.net are great if you anticipate needing to return it to stock, but if you just want the side stand interlock gone then the way I did it was easy. I can still return it to stock if needed, it just requires a bit of minor soldering.
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imported post
Here's an alternative to the"bypass" or "clean" dilemma. One of my trademarks is the "Keller Compromise" which is finding the way to have my cake and eat it too. (VBG)
I simply added a double pole switch (one which handles two separate circuits), wired in so that the switch will bypass the safety switches if needed but allows the safety switches to be retained and used as the maker intended. I like the sidestand safety switch as I have seen several accidents from someone riding off with the side stand down.
If you are into this procedure, it follows. It sounds more complicated than it is because I tried to be detailed.
HIH
Norm
Safety Switch By-pass Switch
Parts list:
1) DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) bat handle toggle switch
2) Rubber switch handle rubber boot
3) Approximately 10 feet 18 gauge wire
4) 4 crimp connectors, eye type to fit screws on switch
5) 1 crimp connector, eye type to fit 6 mm bolt
6) Rubber tool handle dip or silicone RTV
Procedure:
1) Crimp and solder connectors to three 8-inch wires and one long wire
to reach CDI module behind radiator overflow tank. Crimp the 6 mm eye
connector to one 8-inch wire.
2) Attach the long wire and 8 inch wire with 6 mm eye to one side of
the DPST switch (one switched set of terminals) and the other two 8 inch
wires to the other side.
3) Dip the switch with wires attached into the rubber compound or
alternatively coat with RTV, the body of the switch and wires where
attached to switch. The complete switch body should be coated but do not
coat more than the first few threads of the switch mounting tube.
4) Set switch aside to dry.
5) Remove plastic cover over kickstand switch.
6) Remove side covers, seat, front radiator and rad tank covers.
7) Disconnect fuel hose and vacuum hose to fuel tap.
8) Remove fuel tank and check to make sure that the fuel tank mounting
rubbers (hockey pucks) are still in place. Remove the plastic shield in
front of radiator overflow tank.
9) Locate the CDI box and follow the wire harness to the middle plug
in the wire plug mounting plate and unplug the bottom plug that is the
bike end of the wiring harness.
10) Use a pick or terminal disconnect tool to push the lock finger back to
allow the red-black wire to be withdrawn from the plug body.
11) Push the starting relay upward to unhook from the mounting blade and
pull the relay and wires out in front of the side stand switch. Unplug the
wire plug from the starting relay (4 wire plug below starter solenoid) and
use a pick or terminal disconnect tool to push the retainer finger back
and remove the black and yellow/red wires on the same side out of the plug
body.
12) Solder the two 8-inch wires on the same side of the switch to the
black and yellow/red wires from the starter relay plug. I soldered them
carefully to the top crimp of the wire connector so that the connector
will fit back into the plastic plug body. This will allow the starting
relay to operate normally unless the switch is closed. When the switch is
closed the relay will operate regardless of the clutch or side stand
switches.
13) Solder the long wire to the top crimp of the CDI connector in the
same manner as above and return the connector to the plug body.
14) Remove the 6 mm bolt (10 mm head) from the bracket near the starter
relay’s mounting position, place the 6 mm eye connector onto the bolt and
reinstall the bolt.
15) Last step is to mark and bore a hole in the bottom front of the
plastic side stand switch cover which was removed in step #5, locating the
hole so that the switch will clear the bottom of the starter relay and to
the (bike’s) right of the side stand switch. There is ample room.
16) Test the switch by placing the bike in gear, side stand down, choke
on, ignition switch on, etc. Then, tip the KLR toward you so that the rear
wheel is off the ground and hit the starter. If it fires up, note the
switch orientation. If not, flip the switch and it will go now.
17) Reinstall the covers, tank, seat and such using Loctite and or RTV as
desired.
This set-up will allow a near idiot (me) to use the safeties as designed
but to bypass them at a moment’s notice if one fails. The location of the
switch and means of connecting will allow it all to be removed with nearly
no residual damage if desired. The location will also allow the switch to
be operated while holding the front and rear brakes as if stalled on a
hill because the switch will be easily reached with the left hand.
There are likely more elegant solutions to the safety switch issue but
this may be useful to someone
imported post
Here's an alternative to the"bypass" or "clean" dilemma. One of my trademarks is the "Keller Compromise" which is finding the way to have my cake and eat it too. (VBG)
I simply added a double pole switch (one which handles two separate circuits), wired in so that the switch will bypass the safety switches if needed but allows the safety switches to be retained and used as the maker intended. I like the sidestand safety switch as I have seen several accidents from someone riding off with the side stand down.
If you are into this procedure, it follows. It sounds more complicated than it is because I tried to be detailed.
HIH
Norm
Safety Switch By-pass Switch
Parts list:
1) DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) bat handle toggle switch
2) Rubber switch handle rubber boot
3) Approximately 10 feet 18 gauge wire
4) 4 crimp connectors, eye type to fit screws on switch
5) 1 crimp connector, eye type to fit 6 mm bolt
6) Rubber tool handle dip or silicone RTV
Procedure:
1) Crimp and solder connectors to three 8-inch wires and one long wire
to reach CDI module behind radiator overflow tank. Crimp the 6 mm eye
connector to one 8-inch wire.
2) Attach the long wire and 8 inch wire with 6 mm eye to one side of
the DPST switch (one switched set of terminals) and the other two 8 inch
wires to the other side.
3) Dip the switch with wires attached into the rubber compound or
alternatively coat with RTV, the body of the switch and wires where
attached to switch. The complete switch body should be coated but do not
coat more than the first few threads of the switch mounting tube.
4) Set switch aside to dry.
5) Remove plastic cover over kickstand switch.
6) Remove side covers, seat, front radiator and rad tank covers.
7) Disconnect fuel hose and vacuum hose to fuel tap.
8) Remove fuel tank and check to make sure that the fuel tank mounting
rubbers (hockey pucks) are still in place. Remove the plastic shield in
front of radiator overflow tank.
9) Locate the CDI box and follow the wire harness to the middle plug
in the wire plug mounting plate and unplug the bottom plug that is the
bike end of the wiring harness.
10) Use a pick or terminal disconnect tool to push the lock finger back to
allow the red-black wire to be withdrawn from the plug body.
11) Push the starting relay upward to unhook from the mounting blade and
pull the relay and wires out in front of the side stand switch. Unplug the
wire plug from the starting relay (4 wire plug below starter solenoid) and
use a pick or terminal disconnect tool to push the retainer finger back
and remove the black and yellow/red wires on the same side out of the plug
body.
12) Solder the two 8-inch wires on the same side of the switch to the
black and yellow/red wires from the starter relay plug. I soldered them
carefully to the top crimp of the wire connector so that the connector
will fit back into the plastic plug body. This will allow the starting
relay to operate normally unless the switch is closed. When the switch is
closed the relay will operate regardless of the clutch or side stand
switches.
13) Solder the long wire to the top crimp of the CDI connector in the
same manner as above and return the connector to the plug body.
14) Remove the 6 mm bolt (10 mm head) from the bracket near the starter
relay’s mounting position, place the 6 mm eye connector onto the bolt and
reinstall the bolt.
15) Last step is to mark and bore a hole in the bottom front of the
plastic side stand switch cover which was removed in step #5, locating the
hole so that the switch will clear the bottom of the starter relay and to
the (bike’s) right of the side stand switch. There is ample room.
16) Test the switch by placing the bike in gear, side stand down, choke
on, ignition switch on, etc. Then, tip the KLR toward you so that the rear
wheel is off the ground and hit the starter. If it fires up, note the
switch orientation. If not, flip the switch and it will go now.
17) Reinstall the covers, tank, seat and such using Loctite and or RTV as
desired.
This set-up will allow a near idiot (me) to use the safeties as designed
but to bypass them at a moment’s notice if one fails. The location of the
switch and means of connecting will allow it all to be removed with nearly
no residual damage if desired. The location will also allow the switch to
be operated while holding the front and rear brakes as if stalled on a
hill because the switch will be easily reached with the left hand.
There are likely more elegant solutions to the safety switch issue but
this may be useful to someone
imported post
imported post
A friend mentioned that he worked on a KLR which had quit near Tulameen on the weekend. The problem was no spark and he wasn't able to get teh bike going. He did notice that the safety switches had been by-passed by Scotch Guard connectors which are simply an invitation to problems.
An acquaintance had been chasing a mis-fire condition around 120 kph for some time and recified that problem by doing a proper safety switch by-pass.
My A18 misfired and fooled around on one occassion due to the sidestand safety switch. I know it was the sidestand switch because the problem went away when I hit the by-pass switch (as referred to in my earlier post on by-passing). I then flipped the by-pass switch off and cycled the side-stand a few times which recified the misfire. It has not reoccurred. I theororize that this was due to a partial bridging of the sidestand switch contacts by mineral water or semi-condictive mud.
I recommend that everyone carry a sealed copy of the wiring diagram downloadable from Mark's site. This may help someone assisting a problem to diagnose the problem.
HIH
Norm
imported post
A friend mentioned that he worked on a KLR which had quit near Tulameen on the weekend. The problem was no spark and he wasn't able to get teh bike going. He did notice that the safety switches had been by-passed by Scotch Guard connectors which are simply an invitation to problems.
An acquaintance had been chasing a mis-fire condition around 120 kph for some time and recified that problem by doing a proper safety switch by-pass.
My A18 misfired and fooled around on one occassion due to the sidestand safety switch. I know it was the sidestand switch because the problem went away when I hit the by-pass switch (as referred to in my earlier post on by-passing). I then flipped the by-pass switch off and cycled the side-stand a few times which recified the misfire. It has not reoccurred. I theororize that this was due to a partial bridging of the sidestand switch contacts by mineral water or semi-condictive mud.
I recommend that everyone carry a sealed copy of the wiring diagram downloadable from Mark's site. This may help someone assisting a problem to diagnose the problem.
HIH
Norm
R
readymeal
Guest
imported post
imported post
i still have to do the clutch bypass, for the side stand i just removed the cable...not sure if it s a proper fix...
i m usually pretty good at getting the side stand up before i ride but once i got caught...that really scared me...:shock:
imported post
i still have to do the clutch bypass, for the side stand i just removed the cable...not sure if it s a proper fix...
i m usually pretty good at getting the side stand up before i ride but once i got caught...that really scared me...:shock:
imported post
imported post
I'm always amazed by those who feel that the side stand isn't a credible hazard. Anyone with a suicide complex should simply put their stand down and then do a hard left hand turn! This typically makes for a very nasty crash.
People have even flamed me for communicating this concern, hard as that is to understand! I'm less concerned about being right than about finding the truth as seeming to beright pays nothing but being accurate can save skin and bone! (VBG)
The manufacturers install the safety switches for (likely) two reasons; liability and the fact that broken or dead riders are less likely to buy another new bike from them.
Norm
imported post
I'm always amazed by those who feel that the side stand isn't a credible hazard. Anyone with a suicide complex should simply put their stand down and then do a hard left hand turn! This typically makes for a very nasty crash.
People have even flamed me for communicating this concern, hard as that is to understand! I'm less concerned about being right than about finding the truth as seeming to beright pays nothing but being accurate can save skin and bone! (VBG)
The manufacturers install the safety switches for (likely) two reasons; liability and the fact that broken or dead riders are less likely to buy another new bike from them.
Norm
R
readymeal
Guest
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i think i m convinced...
let s get the "Keller Compromise" on the bike...i ve got plenty space on my dashboard anyway...
imported post
i think i m convinced...
let s get the "Keller Compromise" on the bike...i ve got plenty space on my dashboard anyway...
P
Poco Red
Guest
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Hey Norm maybe Ready and I can get a two fer one deal! VBG! How long is the process?
:hb:
Tony.
imported post
Hey Norm maybe Ready and I can get a two fer one deal! VBG! How long is the process?
:hb:
Tony.
imported post
imported post
Depends on how much work and how much talking. (VBG) If the switches are potted ahead of time a couple of hours should do it. We can fit the job in some weekend if you like. It's going to be busy for a while but I'm sure we can work out an acceptable time.
I'm going to give it some thought to see if there's an easier solution than I used in the procedure.
The safety switch by-pass is also handy for lubing the chain. Simply flip the switch, place a spray can close to hand and some cardboard under the chain. Start the engine, grasp the left handle grip with the left handand pull the bike over onto the side stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Push the shifter into first and spray the chain as it passes. When done, flip the safety by-pass switch to the normal position and the engine will stop. Turn off the ignition and put the cardboard and spray can away. Done!
Norm
imported post
Depends on how much work and how much talking. (VBG) If the switches are potted ahead of time a couple of hours should do it. We can fit the job in some weekend if you like. It's going to be busy for a while but I'm sure we can work out an acceptable time.
I'm going to give it some thought to see if there's an easier solution than I used in the procedure.
The safety switch by-pass is also handy for lubing the chain. Simply flip the switch, place a spray can close to hand and some cardboard under the chain. Start the engine, grasp the left handle grip with the left handand pull the bike over onto the side stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Push the shifter into first and spray the chain as it passes. When done, flip the safety by-pass switch to the normal position and the engine will stop. Turn off the ignition and put the cardboard and spray can away. Done!
Norm