DRZ issues

snackdaddy

New member

Background
Having a frustrating problem with my 2005 DRZ 400S. It has a pumper carb of a 2003 DRZ400E. I changed over to the pumper carb 2 years ago. The bike ran fine with current jetting so I do not think that needs to be discussed.

The Issue
After an approximately 20 km of a high-speed run the bike refused to accelerate. The bike will idle fine. I started to limp the bike home, about 20 minutes in to the ride back to the truck the bike came to life and worked fine. Upon return to home the bike will only idle. When I turn the throttle passed 1/5 of a turn huge missing and backfiring.
What I have done
· Checked and adjusted the valves
· New spark Plug
· Cleaned out the carb twice.
After both carb rebuilds I have the exact same issues.
After running for less the 2 minutes the plug was wet and black.
The spark when turning over is bright and jumps at least 1.5 cm

Advice? Questions?
 

scottbc

Member
Wet and black sounds flooded to me.

You cleaned out the carb twice. Is it reassembled correctly? Slide/slide plate in correctly?

Checked the float height?

Checked that the float needle valve is holding back the flow of fuel when the bowl is full.

Good luck, Scott
 

Shuswap

Member
I have the other (stock S) carb in mine, but had very similar power experience.
My plug was wet and black also.
As soon as I *touched* the throttle to take it off idle it would backfire, snort and stall. In my case I focused on the pilot jet, manually cleaning it....even though it appeared to be clean and low and behold....the problem disappeared.
Not very satisfying, because I didn't find anything in the carb at all.
In your case I would have a really lose look at your float needle.

As strange as it sounds, I would also check all charging/battery electrical connections, because a stator problem can also cause these symptoms. Stator diagnosis is EASY and well explained on Thumpertalk. You need a digital meter to get accurate enough readings....I relied on an analog instrument and bought a stator I didn't need!
 

MtB

New member
OK this may seem obvious, but if you are sattisfied with the carb/valves/spark part of it, it is time to move a bit further down the line. Air filter & exhaust. I had the same symptoms and headaches many years ago when some miscreant stuffed a potato into my exhaust as a halloween prank!!!
 
O

old trials guy

Guest
it could be a failed pulse coil. lots of spark to start and idle but won't rev beyond idle might be failed secondary windings in pulse coil. check all of your ignition connections first. best test is substitution of the part. seen this on two bikes recenty and new pulse (trigger) coil rsolved the problem.

otg
 

snackdaddy

New member
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks for all the ideas...I am leaning towards electrical. Please keep the ideas coming in. I will update by Monday.
 

Sparkle

New member
Whenever a bike starts and runs good at slow speed and craps with opening the throttle my first thought is the float bowl is running out of gas. The carb may be fine but check the tank filler cap for a plugged air vent and also remove the gas line and check for a good flow (prime position or suck on the vacuum line to open the valve). In a pinch ride the bike and when the condition occurs crack the filler cap open.

Sparkle
 

snackdaddy

New member
So I measured the resistance in the pickup coil and the signal coil. The pick up coil was withen spec but the signal coil was way out. It was supposed to be between .05 and .2 of an ohm and I am getting readings around 15 ohms.

I still have to physically inspect the stator assembly and hope that it is just a loose wire (not likely but i be hoping)..

I think i will need a new stator (as the pick ups are intergrated)..

So rickey stator or rm stator?

RM is canadian and cheaper (More expensive once shipping and tax included)....I am a big fan of supporting canadian buisness. BUT i have never heard of them

Rickey stator well known brand but from us and will require me to go to Blaine to pick up to be in my hands at a good price and time.

Anyone ever use a RM? http://www.rmstator.com/
 

Sparkle

New member
It's me again snackdaddy:

I would look at your signal coil again. Measuring very small resistance with a just a meter is impossible to do accurately. Even the meter leads themselves will have a resistance of 1 or 2 ohms and the meter circuit itself would have some resistance. Accurate measurements of less than an ohm is almost always done with a wheatstone bridge or other special equipment. Google it.

Usually a coil will fail by either shorting totally (no resistance) or it will be open (infinite resistance). The only other possibility is shorted turns which would result in less resistance. An increase in resistance is almost impossible unless you add a resistor, add turns or stretch the wire. The fact you have continuity and some resistance means (to me) the coil is probably okay.

But hey, that's just me.

Sparkle
 
Last edited:

snackdaddy

New member
An update for those that care.

RM stator was great to deal with. I would highly recomend them. Ordered the part sunday night in my hands tuesday morning...shipping was less then 20 bucks.

The new stator/pick up fixed the issue. Runs great now (finally)

Sarkle you are a very wise man when it comes to electrical.

IF anyone ever has issues like this and wants to confirm that it is electrical vs carb disconnect the three yellow wire connection from the regulator rectifer. If it is electrical your bike should rev. This will also save your ass on the trail but you are running on battery power only...

THANKS for all the suggestions and advice.

Let ride
 
O

old trials guy

Guest
An update for those that care.

RM stator was great to deal with. I would highly recomend them. Ordered the part sunday night in my hands tuesday morning...shipping was less then 20 bucks.

The new stator/pick up fixed the issue. Runs great now (finally)

Sarkle you are a very wise man when it comes to electrical.

IF anyone ever has issues like this and wants to confirm that it is electrical vs carb disconnect the three yellow wire connection from the regulator rectifer. If it is electrical your bike should rev. This will also save your ass on the trail but you are running on battery power only...

THANKS for all the suggestions and advice.

Let ride

Thanks for the update. You should check and see if you can find an aftermarket pulse coil. RM sells several different styles. Most are the same in output and differ only in mounting style. I hate it when the manufacturer integrates a 50 dollar part into a 500 dollar assembly. I hope the aftermarket replacement was reasonable.

cheers.....otg
 

snackdaddy

New member
The price was reasonable. (115 plus tax and shipping). Did not realize i could get just the pulse coil...Hopefully i never have to find out if i can order just that part.
 
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