I stripped!

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dooveman

Guest
OK, here is a doooooozer. I was tightening a valve head bolt when it stripped on my KLR. The bolt is fine. So I think I am big time hooped here. I assume that I have to replace the engine block!

Turns out that the bolt doesn't have as much thread as it's neighbor. So it was holding on with only a few thread. I think this added to the issue. When I was tightening it I only went a little past spec torque when it stripped.

Has anyone had this happen? Am I really hooped beyond belief?

Brian
 
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dooveman

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Seems like the same bolt that gets stripped. Think I'll try the helicoil kit.
 

skidmark43

Administrator / BFF in the blue jacket
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dooveman wrote:
Seems like the same bolt that gets stripped. Think I'll try the helicoil kit.

Helicoils are great. Keep track of which hole has the coil in it for the future (permanent marking paint on the bolt head?).

If you want to try to re-tap (and there is space to work) I could give you a hand next week.

Another choice would be machinist / welder / fabricator / all-round great guy Wally Routledge... He should be able to do a professional fixat low cost. 604.532.1021

Mark
 
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dooveman

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I got the kit. A little expensive and it ofcourse only works with that exact size of bolt. So I get a pack of 10 with it but if a different size bolt goes, you need another kit. Sheesh!

I also have to get the small torque wrench. Mine only goes down to 120 inch-pounds. All these torque setting for aluminum are very small.

I'm just glad I didn't strip the left side. It's under the frame!

I also did the subframe bolt upgrade while I was at it. My drill was too weak though,so IHAD to buy a brand new 6A drill with level and detachable side handle. oh, the agony. Ofcourse when I saw the sale on thehand grinder/cutter I had to get one of those. Nothing like sendinga huge shower of sparks out of your garage at night tofreak the neighbors.:clap:
 

BMWNut

Member
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We've pretty much stopped using heli-coils at the shop. We use a stronger repair from Wurth called a "Time-sert". Instead of a thin repair coil you install a solid collar with a small flange on top. The flange isto stop it from ever winding down the hole. Very strong and permanent. The kit is expensive; drill bit, dressing tool, and two taps,~$100-$200. The collars are a few bucks a piece depending on size. BMWinstalls them at the factory on aluminum pieces that will see heavy duty use, like the valve cover bolts on a boxer motor. Great product with only two caveats. 1) Must be installed in aluminum. 2) Must have enough depth of material to install the entire collar ~1.2x collar size. Here's a picture:

TaperBig.jpg
 

windaddiction

New member
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ya heli-coils are OK I've used them on so diesel engines on no crutial components. Your valve cover probally will be fine with a heli-coil. But liek BMWnut said those ones BMW uses are great there is also another typ, can't remebr the name try google. As well if you know anyone wil a welder they could fill it then you re-tap. and if all else fails put JB weld in the hole let it set up and drill and tap it !

On a side note this doesnt help for stripping a thread but for busting bolts if you are tighting it and it's getting tighter and tighter then gets a little softer DO NOT keep going you have just exceed the maxium stress for the bolt, it will break if you keep going, back it out slowly and replace with a new bolt!
 
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dooveman

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I've used a heli coil. The bad news is that I was drunk. Well, at least it looks like I was drunk when you look at the line I took. It's slightly crooked as an end result. So the head of the bolt doesn't sit perfectly flat. We will see if it results in a leak. I gues you can't re-do if it does:?
 
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