Mechanically challenged... need help... please... arrrrg

[dickster]

As I pulled into the driveway at work this A.M. my clutch cable broke on my 2004 KLR where the rubber sock is close to the engine.

It seemsfairly obviousto me that I need a new clutch cable. My question is, when I manually move the clutch forward why does it not engage? Should there be spring / resistance? There isn't.

Whilst frigging with it I was surprized to see that the clutch pin(?) pulls right out. When the clutch pin is in and I move it forward it rises up 1-2mm, is that proper?

What I'm really trying to find out is whether replacing the clutch cable is likely to fix the problem given the symptoms, or do I have to face aharsher reality?

I don't have my manuals here, but I doubt that they would answer these questions anyway.

Cheers:hb:

 

[Yak_KLR650]

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When you say "pin" are you referring to the actual pivot that goes into the clutch housing? That is usually very hard to move by hand (that's why the mechanical advantage of the lever is used). I have never noticed any upward movement of that (like out of the case?)

Had you noticed anything different about the clutch operation prior to today? binding, etc.

Replacing the cable is simple enough and you obviously need to that anyway, regardless of what else may be wrong. Do that - see if everything works. Then proceed to diagnose if needed once all the obviously broken things are corrected.

Good luck!

 

[dickster]

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Yeah, that thing, yeah out of the clutch housing. I couldn't see anything to stop it from coming out of the case. It lifts up and with a half turn slips right out.

The clutch had been operating normally.

I guess that's the plan. I'm just trying to avoid waiting for the cable, installing it, finding out that it isn't the problem, then diagnose, wait for part, install,... Last time I went that route I missed a month of riding.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Cheers:hb:


P.S. I just talked to the Kawi mechanic in Williams Lake and he didn't think anything abnormal was going on. He said the pivot will pull right out and that the angle that the cable pulls probably stops the pivot from rising up. He reaffirmed that it is very difficult to engage the clutch manually and that I would need a wrench to do so.

 

[dickster]

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Here I go, responding to my own post again!

Well, lets just say that it helps to look at the manual:ted:, although my manual has poor pictures and is short on words.

It turns out that I had moved the clutch 'pivot' counter clockwise enough to allow it to sit flat against the casing. I assumed:shoot:that this was how it should look.Indeed I was wrong, there should be a gap of 1-3mm when the 'pivot' is properly placed.

So ... I needed a new clutch cable. I am mobile yet again.

It is a good thing that, at this point in time,my riding abilities far exceed my mechanical abilities:clap:.

 

[Yak_KLR650]

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That little rubber boot on the lower end of the cable perishes quite rapidly, leading to crap in the cable and early failure. I use 303 Protectant on all those rubber boots and grommets on the bike (like Armour All, but better) to keep them in good shape. I use it on my fork boots too.

Glad you got sorted out for cheap!

 

[dickster]

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The little rubber bootdecomposed quite rapidly (1 year max.) and was ultimately the root of my problems. I will be looking for the 303 protectant on my next trip to the big city (100 Mile House). Fortunately my fork boots haven't gone that way, but I'll treat them too. I really don't like it when I can't ride my bike.

Cheers:hb:

 

[Yak_KLR650]

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Any shop that sells kayak gear should have 303. I use it on the hatch seals and the gaskets of my dry top. Has UV inhibitors in.

 

[dickster]

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Thanks for that. I picked some 303 up at Red Shreds in Williams Lake yesterday. It comes highly recommended. I'll be the other guy with the shiny fork boots.

Cheers:hb: