PCV install on 08 KLR650

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I read so much about how a PCV install made many bikes run better, so I did it myself a few months ago.



It really does seem to have given it a slight ( i mean slight ) power increase.



Mine never used oil in the first place, but the odd 08 has burned oil, and those that do the PCV install say it stops much of the oil useage from sustained high rpm riding.

Apparently the KLR builds up a bit too much crankcase pressure if run over 5,000 rpm for a while on say a high speed highway rip.

Its cheap, and easy to do, so why not.

I got the part at Canadian tire, and install is under 5 minutes.

You need a sharp knife, and a screwdriver is all.



If more info is wanted, let me know.
 

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Buckethead

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Hey-

I have a question for you: What type of PCV valve did you use?

I understand (from a knowledgeble but still internet forum source) that a normal gravity ball style valve can only cycle around 2000rpm before the ball simply can't move fast enough. This means that the mod only works at lower RPMs, not at higher RPMs wher it's needed, thus the need for a reed style valve like the ones on some Mercedes. I have yet to find a cheap reed valve like that though.

Cheers,

Matthew
 

Smedly

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I did the PCV mod also on my '08...really haven't noticed any difference. I've heard about the cycles issue before and it would be interesting to get an answer on this. If the crankcase pressure can't release at high rpm, this is probably not a good thing for gaskets and seals.
 
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Buckethead wrote:
Hey-

I have a question for you: What type of PCV valve did you use?

I understand (from a knowledgeble but still internet forum source) that a normal gravity ball style valve can only cycle around 2000 cycles/sec before the ball simply can't move fast enough. This means that the mod only works at lower RPMs, not at higher RPMs wher it's needed, thus the need for a reed style valve like the ones on some Mercedes. I have yet to find a cheap reed valve like that though.

Cheers,

Matthew

Everyone on klr650.net seemed to be just using the regualr ball type, and thats the one i used also.

That and the 2 hose clamps.



I run mine at sustained high rpm regularly, especially when just my 13 CS sprocket is on and i ride the HWY.

It seems fine.



2,000 cycles per second would be the same as 120,000 rpm....thats some motor to run that rpm.



Anyways i run mine up at 5,500 rpm on the HWY all the time, and it stops the crankcase from being ble to draw back in so much air each cycle, to then build up as much pressure....it seem to work.
 

Buckethead

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ChanceIt wrote:
Everyone on klr650.net seemed to be just using the regualr ball type, and thats the one i used also.

That and the 2 hose clamps.



I run mine at sustained high rpm regularly, especially when just my 13 CS sprocket is on and i ride the HWY.

It seems fine.



2,000 cycles per second would be the same as 120,000 rpm....thats some motor to run that rpm.



Anyways i run mine up at 5,500 rpm on the HWY all the time, and it stops the crankcase from being ble to draw back in so much air each cycle, to then build up as much pressure....it seem to work.


DISCLAIMER: I AM NO EXPERT ON THIS. FEEL FREE TO ATTACH ANYTHING YOU WANT TO YOUR BIKE AS LONG AS IT MAKES YOU HAPPY.

Not everyone on KLR650.net uses a regular PCV valve, (nor for that matter does everyone think it's a good idea.). As near as I can tell, this it the thread that started it all, way back in 2005 complete with dyno charts:

http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13526&highlight=pcv&page=2

A quote relevant to my question:

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We recognized a few weeks back when you showed me those valves ( yes people, we've discussed this for weeks before you heard about it ) that the PCV valve was only a theory tester at best. And we knew up front that to work properly it would have to cycle at 6500 prm.
That's completly impossible for a little fishing weight in a can.

And I like the valves you showed me, I just didn't have the funding to order parts from overseas to experiment with. But if you recall, I was talking to you about flow rate.

So consider this ( and I understand that you know way more about your valves than I do, by far ) but...I'haven't measured pressure yet, but let's say 2psig. Now at 2psig, if the valve were to operate in an optimum condition, it would have to pass not only the 44 some odd cubic inches of piston and pin and rod displacement, but it'd have to expel any blowby as well, which will be different for every engine. But lets just say 40 cubic inches per stroke at 6000 rpm. Thats 100 times a second. Now blowby only happens on half of those, and suction on the other half. I don't think we're buring too much oil on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke...
anyway, let's see ...uh...100 times a second, 40 cubic inches, 1728 inches in a foot...that's uh...let's see...carry the one...uh...140 cfm...just about what the airbox needs to flow in!
Of course that's not gonna happen, and I'm just spitballin' here, but in a perfect world, your valve would have a break-over point at less than 2psi, only have a half inch ID, and flow 140 cfm, oh, and have a cyclic rate of 100cps!!!

I think Dynobob's right about not much action from the common PCV valve!!


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There are other postings in this thread and others mentioning the use of reed valves, or comparing this to the umbrella valves common on Harleys.

The reading that I have done on this makes itlook like it's a good idea worthy of exploration that got posted, but because it's a cheap mod people have tried the basic PCV, nothing bad happened so they wrote about it on the web, leading to more people doing it, and suddenly it's a standard thing without the full R&D being done.

Glad to hear that it works for you. Anything that improves your horsepower and cuts down on oil usage is a good thing, especially at a minor cost. Thanks fo posting your experience.

DISCLAIMER: I AM NO EXPERT ON THIS. FEEL FREE TO ATTACH ANYTHING YOU WANT TO YOUR BIKE AS LONG AS IT MAKES YOU HAPPY.
 
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The thread I followed was a newer one started just this spring I think.

I felt it helps a bit....maybe its in my head, I have no proof....at least it cannot hurt.
 

Buckethead

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ChanceIt wrote:
The thread I followed was a newer one started just this spring I think.

I felt it helps a bit....maybe its in my head, I have no proof....at least it cannot hurt.


I don't want to step on anybodies funkhere - If it makes your bike faster (for whatever reason) then it's all good!

Forums are great - How did we everride our bikeswithout them =)- but, like any big group of people they have thier myths, misinformation, gospels, gurus, politicians, sheep, and liars. Sorting it all out to find good, completeinfo is always a challenge.In the end,it (including my posts) is all just someone's opinion until it works for you.

See you on the trails!

Matthew
 
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ZED

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Internet forumns are definitely full of opinions, and us KLR folk tend to gravitate to any mod that's
A. Cheap (like, a few dollars per mod sor of realm),
B. Easy (can be done at a tech day with friends and beer :hb:),
AND
C. Has the slightest chance of improving the performnace of our favorite heavy pig!

I haven't done the PCV mod on mine. There are two '05s in our house that have been well flogged. Perhaps someone can explain what the intended purpose of this mod is. Is it just for preventing oil loss due to blow-by and increased crank-case pressures? If so, I don't think I'd worry about it until it oil consumption becomes a problem. Even at about 50k on one of our KLRs, it still doesn't really consume oil.
 

Buckethead

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ZED wrote:
Internet forumns are definitely full of opinions, and us KLR folk tend to gravitate to any mod that's
A. Cheap (like, a few dollars per mod sor of realm),
B. Easy (can be done at a tech day with friends and beer :hb:),
AND
C. Has the slightest chance of improving the performnace of our favorite heavy pig!

I haven't done the PCV mod on mine. There are two '05s in our house that have been well flogged. Perhaps someone can explain what the intended purpose of this mod is. Is it just for preventing oil loss due to blow-by and increased crank-case pressures? If so, I don't think I'd worry about it until it oil consumption becomes a problem. Even at about 50k on one of our KLRs, it still doesn't really consume oil.


Here's the idea (copied from the above linked thread):

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Ya see, Some years ago, those of us into racing, tried experimenting with one way valves or check valves to evacuate the pressure created in the crankcase of an engine as a piston reaches the bottom of it's stroke. The thought was, that if you could get the air out from under the piston as it came down, then the piston wouldn't have to compress it, and there would be more power for the rear wheel. Long story short, it wont work on a two stroke, 'cause they use that pressure to charge the cylinder, and most fourstroke racing engines are of a multi cylinder design, and so as one piston comes down, another is going up, which kinda balances out the pressure anyway. So the idea was largely abandoned as more work than it was worth.

Enter the KLR. Four stroke. One cylinder. Piston goes down, pressure builds up beneath it, no other piston to move up at that moment to equalize things.

So... ya get an old fashioned PCV valve from ( in my case ) an old Chevy, and install it in the vent, so that air pushed out of the vent, as the piston goes down, can't get back in when the piston goes back up. And just for kicks, ya vent it overboard ( at least that's what I did )

The bike seems a little more peppy. But that's not proven in any way that I'd even think about publishing. But something else interesting has happened instead. Cary said yesterday that his oil consumption has gone down by at least 20%-25%. So, I checked mine, and saw that this last trip, I've not used any. Now the thing about that is, I run a 14 tooth CS sprocket, and on the highway I run 5000 rpm. I hate it, but I'm too lazy to change the sprocket twice a week. (A 16 for commuting and a 14 for off-road work on the weekends). Last week, prior to the check valve installation, I used about 100cc of oil in about 300 miles ( my weekly commute ) And, As I said, I haven't used any this week. If I haven't put in a quart a month, or every thousand miles, I think this will be worth the 5 smackers I paid for it.

It seems that in addition to letting out the pressure, and not letting it back in, the valve creates a vacuum on the underside of the piston, such that as the piston travels down on the intake stroke, the low pressure on top of the piston, that allows fuel and air to be sucked in, is somewhat countered, by the low pressure below the piston created by the check valve, and the tendency of the oil to be sucked past the rings into the cylinder, is reduced...a lot. In addition to that, the blowby on the compression stroke, that would also be vented into the airbox, as unburnable carbon monoxide and oil vapor, now goes overboard, and is replaced in the carb, by fresh air...much more combustible. Now Cary says this isn't as significant as I thought and that the suction from the airbox is more important to the crankcase than it is to not put the blowby into the carb.

Now, there's no way I'm gonna leave the vent open to water crossings, but I am gonna see if there's a way to vent it overboard to the atmosphere, without putting it into my engine. I think one of those little rubber vents that has a slit in it, like they use on the battery vent of some bikes may be the ticket, as well as acting as a secondary check valve, kinda like a reed valve.

Like I said it was KLRCary's idea in the first place, so I'm not gonna say anything more on the forums, but any experiment, is more accurate if you have more data, or ideas, to draw on.



Now Cary has a setup that has some elbows to help condense the oil vapor, and his vents back into the airbox to use that suction to aid the evacuation of the crankcase, but here's what mine looks like.


Flux_Valve.jpg



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I was discussing this idea with a friend the other day, and he made an intersting point - He feels that increased lubrication to the top of the rings at high RPMs outweighs the inconvenience of having to top off the oil after high speed running. IE as long as the engine is otherwise healthy, consuming oil at high speed is not such a bad thing - in fact many engines are designed this way.

Food for thought. It's an interesting issue.

Matthew
 
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ZED

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Thanks for the post. It looks like I thought. People with overly worn cylinders are trying to solve the symptom rather than the problem. Excesive blow-by and the associated oil consumption are symptoms.

I also question how much extra power one might gain this way. While it's true that the piston now doesn't have to compress on the downstroke, it does have to draw vacuum on the up stroke. That still takes power.

However, it is a cheap solution and if that makes people happy, then that's great!:tup:
 
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ZED wrote:
Thanks for the post. It looks like I thought. People with overly worn cylinders are trying to solve the symptom rather than the problem. Excesive blow-by and the associated oil consumption are symptoms.

I also question how much extra power one might gain this way. While it's true that the piston now doesn't have to compress on the downstroke, it does have to draw vacuum on the up stroke. That still takes power.

However, it is a cheap solution and if that makes people happy, then that's great!:tup:
My seat of the pants dyno is accurate to plus/minus 1.14583921 % and says its worth about .00341274289954215683 HP ;)
 
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ChanceIt wrote:
My seat of the pants dyno is accurate to plus/minus 1.14583921 % and says its worth about .00341274289954215683 HP ;)


:clap:
 
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