My bike only starts now if I do NOT engage the clutch in neutral. I can't remember this happening before in neutral but it has been awhile since I road my bike. If I engage the clutch, it won't turn over. Any thoughts? Unless I am dreaming, I can't ever remember it doing that before. Just a habit of mine to pull the clutch in before starting.
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Starts only when clutch is not engaged
- Thread starter klrman
- Start date
Yak_KLR650
New member
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imported post
Time to clean the contacts on the clutch safety switch. Located und the clutch lever pivot.
I guess you're just starting the KLR for...? Since you're having so much fun tearing around on the Strom!
imported post
Time to clean the contacts on the clutch safety switch. Located und the clutch lever pivot.
I guess you're just starting the KLR for...? Since you're having so much fun tearing around on the Strom!
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From the KLR FAQ: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
Starter circuit fails to work, or only works with in neutral with clutch out.
Engine runs in neutral, but dies when I put it in gear.
There are two known causes for this. First, the side stand switch can corrode and sieze up or get bad contacts. It is best to bypass this switch before it goes bad and leaves you stranded in the wild. To do so, simply disconnect the connector at the switch (under the small, black plastic cover), and short the harness wires together (brown and green/white) with a jumper. The second part is the clutch safety switch at the clutch lever, which tends to fall out of adjustment. To bypass, disconnect the plug from the clutch switch underneath the cover on the instrument panel. Short the black/yellow and blue/red wires on the main harness with a jumper. In both cases, the switches can be reactivated by removing the jumpers and plugging the connectors back in.
It is also possible to bypass both at once by bypassing the starter safety relay: This is not the main starter relay, but an adjacent, secondary relay that is used to manage the safety circuits. Remove the relay, and connect either of the yellow/red wires to the black wire, or use the yellow/red wire from the small relay to replace the black wire on the starter relay. The starter safety relay has the same part number as the fan relay, so hang on to it; they're not cheap. There are reports that one of the safety circuit diodes still needs to be grounded for the neutral light to work properly; you can do this by bypassing the sidestand switch.
It also appears that the "running safety" circuits can be bypassed by grounding the red/black wire coming from the CDI unit, but this has not been confirmed.
David...
imported post
From the KLR FAQ: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
Starter circuit fails to work, or only works with in neutral with clutch out.
Engine runs in neutral, but dies when I put it in gear.
There are two known causes for this. First, the side stand switch can corrode and sieze up or get bad contacts. It is best to bypass this switch before it goes bad and leaves you stranded in the wild. To do so, simply disconnect the connector at the switch (under the small, black plastic cover), and short the harness wires together (brown and green/white) with a jumper. The second part is the clutch safety switch at the clutch lever, which tends to fall out of adjustment. To bypass, disconnect the plug from the clutch switch underneath the cover on the instrument panel. Short the black/yellow and blue/red wires on the main harness with a jumper. In both cases, the switches can be reactivated by removing the jumpers and plugging the connectors back in.
It is also possible to bypass both at once by bypassing the starter safety relay: This is not the main starter relay, but an adjacent, secondary relay that is used to manage the safety circuits. Remove the relay, and connect either of the yellow/red wires to the black wire, or use the yellow/red wire from the small relay to replace the black wire on the starter relay. The starter safety relay has the same part number as the fan relay, so hang on to it; they're not cheap. There are reports that one of the safety circuit diodes still needs to be grounded for the neutral light to work properly; you can do this by bypassing the sidestand switch.
It also appears that the "running safety" circuits can be bypassed by grounding the red/black wire coming from the CDI unit, but this has not been confirmed.
David...
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No Joker, actually won't crank if I "pull in" the clutch. Guess Doug is right! Need to stop neglecting her and get off that Strom! Nearly forgot how much fun the KLR is too. Told my wife I'm going for 5 mintues up the road to Tim Hortons but came back 4 hours later after zipping up Mt. Ida and Fly hills.
Will get some of that Di-electric grease you all talk about in this forum and clean the contacts. Thanks all and thanks FIxerDave, I should have known!
imported post
No Joker, actually won't crank if I "pull in" the clutch. Guess Doug is right! Need to stop neglecting her and get off that Strom! Nearly forgot how much fun the KLR is too. Told my wife I'm going for 5 mintues up the road to Tim Hortons but came back 4 hours later after zipping up Mt. Ida and Fly hills.
Will get some of that Di-electric grease you all talk about in this forum and clean the contacts. Thanks all and thanks FIxerDave, I should have known!