07 XR650L MOdding

XRFisher

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If you can get ahold of a manual for the bike, you will find a chart that references; elevation and air temperature. I cannot remember the formula but it is based on a 138 jet and at .98 (coefficient of temp. & elevation--need chart for this number).



If you cannot get ahold of a shop manual, send me the elevation and average air temp. and I will pass on the rest to you.
 

yorkie

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I should be ok just following the direction that come with the kit, more diagrams would have been nice! The dynojet kit that came with the FMF muffler should keep me in the ballpark the correct mixture. I'm not looking forward to taking the carb off and installing the new spring, needle jet (s). The instuctions say to drill through the plugs...what plugs? Will they show themselves when I take the top of the carb off?. Any advise would be appreciated as I plan of doing it this weekend. 250 246 4482.

I must say that the bike 100% better with the new muffler and it's not too noisy.
 

XRFisher

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Yorkie,

I ran into the same dillema as you while installing the jet kit. The instructions talk about drilling out a factory cover for the pilot jet...after a little research, it seems as though the instructions are referring to the air-fuel mixture screw that is near the float bowl. It has a little cap on it and the tab on the cap requires removal. I filled mine down until it would pass by the tab on the floatbowl. Removing the tab on the cap will allow you to reset the air fuel mixture screw.

Typically, it is turned to the seated position and then backed out two and a half turns.

Here is a breakdown of what I did just last weekend.

1. washed motorcycle, ran bike with fuel petcock in the off position until it stopped

2. removed left and right side panels, gas tank, seat, and charcoal cannister.

3. removed throttle linkage on right side of bike. (involves disconnecting rear brake resevoir.

4. went to left of bike, removed choke linkage (I broke the linkage mouting nut when re-installing it into the carb. Use caution, it does not require very much force to remove or install).

5. Loosened clamps that hold carb in place.

6. quick clockwise twist of carb to free it up for removal then removed the housing that connects the carb to the air box. I just pushed it back and right towards the frame rail that runs near it. It held it in place.

7. Gently pulled carb away from head while twisting side to side.

8. carb was set free, I took a picture of all the vacuum lines, then removed carb from bike (it took a little finesse to get it through the frame).

9. removed float bowl, replace main jet (stock was a 152, I put the 160 in).

10. replaced float bowl cover.

11. started working on the top side of the carb, removed slide cover (four phillips screws).

12. replaced stock slide spring, removed needle jet (just took a correctly sized phillips screw driver, pushed down and turned to release the little plastic piece that holds the needle valve in place. Replaced stock needle jet with the one supplied in jet kit.

13. Re-installed slide cover, and reversed the order of removal starting at step eight.

***I ran into trouble with the bike running properly when I used the 165 jet. The bike ran fine until it warmed up, then it stalled and would not restart. The second time I took all the stuff of and replaced the 165 jet with a 160 it only took about 10 minutes and the bike runs fine. Again, be gentle when reinstalling the choke linkage nut, mine was brittle and broke with very little effort. Fortunately, the shop in town had a replacement.

Good luck, it is not a difficult job at all. By the way, did you buy the stage one jet kit?
 

yorkie

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Yes, I got the stage one kit. They supply two main jet in the kit a 160 and 165 and the do recommend the 165 for the modifications that I have made. However, I may try the 160 based on your experience. Drilling the slide, I understand and will follow through as they recommend. I will cut the tab off the mixture screw although I could do that with a zip wheel while on the bike...I think! Is there anydanger of the mixture screw backing off during operation?
 

xr8d

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Yorkie, if you want to save some steps, I just re-jetted mine last weekend also, you can leave the choke cable attatched and just swivel the carb out between the head and frame on the right side, it will leave enough room to do the main jet and needle and spring. :dr:
 

xr8d

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I think the jet you use depends on how free flowing your pipe and air filter are, I put the 165 in and it runs great with the uni foam air filter, I think XRFisher is running the stock air filter.
 

yorkie

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Is it possible to leave the two throttle cables on also when swivilling the carb?...yes, I am lazy!
 

xr8d

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Used 165 jet, didn't drill the slide. I'm no mechanic and was very nervous about going into the carb, but it was actually very easy and only took an hour with beer and smoke breaks!!
 

xr8d

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It seems we're typing at the same time, throttle cables must be removed, when you reinstall them, leave enough free play or you will stall your bike every time you turn the bars left.
 

yorkie

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I will give it a go in the morning and report back to you guys. Shouldn't take me two minutes...I don't drink...or smoke!!
 

yorkie

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yorkie wrote:
I will give it a go in the morning and report back to you guys. Shouldn't take me two minutes...I don't drink...or smoke


All done! I put the .165" jet in, drilled the slide, trimmed the tap off the mixture screw and I very happy with the result. I'ts certainly not the bike I bought some week ago. I pulls bigtime now as I new it would and the front wheel is only too happy rise to the occasion! I also fitted the 4.7 Clarke tank and the ProMoto Billit rear rack. I'm actually looking forward to riding it now, in it's stock state the bike sucks. Thanks for your support guys, talk later.
animal-smiley-037.gif
 

XRFisher

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just checking in...good to hear how thing turned out. Should be a fun bike ride next time your out.

By the way...I was running the stock filter when I had the 165 jet in...then I put in the K & N. It did run better, but not quite right so I reduced the jetting size. Bike runs well now, pull good and lifts up the front wheel (totally new experience, but a blast).

Glad to hear things worked out. Enjoy.
 

yorkie

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yorkie wrote:
yorkie wrote:
I will give it a go in the morning and report back to you guys. Shouldn't take me two minutes...I don't drink...or smoke


All done! I put the .165" jet in, drilled the slide, trimmed the tap off the mixture screw and I'm very happy with the result. I'ts certainly not the bike I bought some week ago. I pulls bigtime now as I new it would and the front wheel is only too happy rise to the occasion! I also fitted the 4.7 Clarke tank and the ProMoto Billit rear rack. I'm actually looking forward to riding it now, in it's stock state the bike sucks. Thanks for your support guys, talk later.
animal-smiley-037.gif
 
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Eric Shane

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I also own a 2007 XR650l for the rear tire, I can say the best tire that is dot aproved and for grabbing dirt and also for the road is the TKC80 dualtwin tire it cost about $120 its 60% off road and 40% on road I highly recommend it
 

XmikeR

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Well guys, i figured I would once again add my two bits, Ive done all the mods, short of boring and camming, white bros. exaust, jetting, airbox mods, drilled the carb out, desmogged bla bla bla.......... Ive got just shy of 20,000 km on the bike ( that in two yrs)and I'm happy with the way it ran.

Well, I just had catastrophic failure.I was riding up in the Loops with the gang, and it started to blow blue, and a bad slapping sound is now coming from the engine. Maybe a broken ring? Im not the whiz mechanic type, so its a slow breakdown from top to bottom to figure it out. I havent opened it up yet, but that is coming soon.

Im thinking of putting in a hotter cam, and a wiseco piston that delivers a little more compression. (say 10:1 instead of the 12:1 sleeper. There are kits to put it up to 8:1,but Ive heard from those in the know, that they get impossible to start if you crank them up that much.) The exhaust is going to be replaced with a header, and pipe, fromxr's only, as the white brospipe goes through packing like I go through back tires. Ive been running a 14 tooth front, but for hardcore trailriding im going to get a 13. Maybe if the bank isn't tapped, I'll look at some suspension upgrades. Hopefully these mods bring me up into the50 hprange.

Too heavy, Too slow? :mad3:I say no!.................... Too much fun!
 
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brp.shrek

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Hey,

I don't know if you can get it for the 650l but XRsonly makes an HRC copy cam for the 650R thats supposed to be the cats ass. Also I just put a Mikuni pumper carb on my 650r...sweet.

Cheers,Nick
 

baxter650

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You can up the compression from a stock 8.3:1 to 10.25:1 with no real starting issues. Problems arrise when you change the cam for one without the compression release ie, some of the cams from HotCams.On my 00 XRL idid the 10.25:1 671cc big bore kit with a Hot Cams stick with no comp. release, i can tell you it can be a bitch to start when cold and your battery better be in top shape. I replaced my battery cables with larger wire to help a little. Warmstarts have never been an issue. My bike had some 30,000 kms on it when i did the work and now with over 40,000 kms she runs just fine. I am running the XRs Only stainless head pipe and muffler and will be putting it on my new 08 XRL. I had the BIG GUN slip onand it did anything but slip on, the pipeDID NOT fit worth shit. I had to beat and dent thecrap out of it and mod the mountingbracket to get it to fit. Unless they have changed this pipe stay away from it.
 
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