08 DRZ400 Idles only on full choke, dies when throttle opened

[Shuswap]

And to add a different perspective. I have stopped lubing cables. The cables are coated internally from the factory and lubes seem too break that coating down. And lubed cables will attract more dirt. So at the end of the day after you lube a cable once you have to continually keep lubing it to keep it feeling good.

Cables for most bikes are cheap. I just change them out now. This also reduces the chance of a broken cable during a ride. YMMV.

Are you pretty sure the lining is actually breaking down? Or is the lube just losing its volatiles and thickening? I don't lube mine very often but do use WD40 or ACF50 when I do, neither of which thicken notably over time.

I did a long term test of many available spay can lubes, applied to a flat bar of aluminum and left to sit(inside) for 3 years. There was still some evidence of both the aformentioned lubes while many others, such as PB's various products, dry lubes, graphite, silicone sprays, etc had completely disappeared.... or lubes like LPS3, corrosion inhibiting sprays, chain lubes had thickened into a firm heavy paste.

 

[Farp]

The cable linings are either teflon or nylon, and are not affected by lubricants. Here's an interesting article on the subject.

http://www.your-adrenaline-fix.com/lube-the-cables.html

John

 

[bkoz]

Are you pretty sure the lining is actually breaking down? Or is the lube just losing its volatiles and thickening? I don't lube mine very often but do use WD40 or ACF50 when I do, neither of which thicken notably over time.

Good question. I think the culprit is more likely the lube attracting contaminants. I have tried many different lubes: WD40, silicone, dedicated cable lubes, dry graphite. The dry graphite seemed the best. But nothing I tried feels like a fresh cable.

I used to spend alot of time greasing my clutch lever pivot, throttle tube, throttle cam and lubing cables trying to keep everything fresh. I have had much better luck replacing cables periodically and simply cleaning all the previous parts and leaving them dry or with a shot of dry graphite. Everything stays smooth when the dirt can't stick. This is not as critical on road only riding.

I remember years ago as an apprentice a couple of Journeymen mechanics giving my crap for greasing the head of a non sealed ratchet. They said that the grease will attract dirt and the ratchet will start sticking right away. I didn't listen. How the heck could the grease not work? They were right. No more grease or lube in my non-sealed ratchets.