K
klrbso
Guest
I have a 2008 klr650 and have installed a 12v power plug and am not sure which power wire to tap into I do not want to go strait to battery I would prefer to have power supplied through ignition switch
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volcon
New member
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The "best way" to provide power for accessories is to switch batterycurrentwith a relay which is turned on by the lighting circuit. On "old" style KLRs thereare city light wires behind the headlight that can be used toturn the relay on. (I don't know if new KLRs have the city light wires.) Youshould wire a fuse in the circuit as close the the battery terminal as posible. Automotive type relays work well as they are designed to operate in harsh conditions and can be found at any auto parts store.
Hope I've been clear, if not post-up and I can post a picture, drawing, or some more incomprehensible ramblings.
imported post
The "best way" to provide power for accessories is to switch batterycurrentwith a relay which is turned on by the lighting circuit. On "old" style KLRs thereare city light wires behind the headlight that can be used toturn the relay on. (I don't know if new KLRs have the city light wires.) Youshould wire a fuse in the circuit as close the the battery terminal as posible. Automotive type relays work well as they are designed to operate in harsh conditions and can be found at any auto parts store.
Hope I've been clear, if not post-up and I can post a picture, drawing, or some more incomprehensible ramblings.
joker650
Active member
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imported post
U bet....Installing a relay is the best way to go.
Here is one of the best relays on the market.:ted:
I use these for work , some equiptment these are OEM
I think they are only about $5-$7.
In the spring we made up a wireing harness for the kid's CRF230 for a headlight HI/Lo and tail light. Workes great.
They are good for 30amps and draw verry little...maybe 1/8amp.
U can even get the plug in for them that has all the wires.
You can get this whole kit at Lordco for under $15
Here is another of a different brand.
They have the pin # listed on the plastic housing.
imported post
U bet....Installing a relay is the best way to go.
Here is one of the best relays on the market.:ted:
I use these for work , some equiptment these are OEM
I think they are only about $5-$7.
In the spring we made up a wireing harness for the kid's CRF230 for a headlight HI/Lo and tail light. Workes great.
They are good for 30amps and draw verry little...maybe 1/8amp.
U can even get the plug in for them that has all the wires.
You can get this whole kit at Lordco for under $15
Here is another of a different brand.
They have the pin # listed on the plastic housing.
sparklr
New member
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imported post
Also wouldn't hurt to throw in a miniATO fuse block and make it switchable, this will allow for some more Farkles and help with some trailside remedial work if need be. ATO's are a little less fragile to pack and easier to remove. Guage your wires accordingly and wrap them up, don't forget to Dielectric lube your connections. Happy wiring!
imported post
Also wouldn't hurt to throw in a miniATO fuse block and make it switchable, this will allow for some more Farkles and help with some trailside remedial work if need be. ATO's are a little less fragile to pack and easier to remove. Guage your wires accordingly and wrap them up, don't forget to Dielectric lube your connections. Happy wiring!
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The relay advice is the way to go.
If you want to add a nice touch to the installation, there are some additional considerations:
1) Connect the fuse lead to the battery side of the starter relay. This will provide power without connecting to the battery. Connecting to the battery is poor practice because the battery connections are more prone to corrosion. Connecting additional leads to the battery is a PIA when dealing with the battery because more wires mean more hassles when refitting.
2) Connect the ground terminal for the relay to the starter cable side of the starter relay rather than to a frame or body connection. This is also the way to go when installing headlight or other supply relays. The advantage to using the starter cable side of the starter relay to provide the ground connection for the accessory relay(s) is that the relay(s) will automatically turn off when the starter is operating. This will remove the load of non-essentials when starting which could make the difference with a low or weak battery.
You have installed headlight relays on your KLR haven't you?
The KLR has wiring which is too small so by-passing the stock wiring harness really improves the light. It also improves other circuits by reducing the load in the small wiring harness.
Another useful modification for the KLR is to ground the headlight directly to the frame rather than relying on the small sized common ground circuit wiring.
There is an easy to do, plug and play solution which avoids having to cut into the stock wiring harness. I did these mods on several KLR's and the headlight is improved to be as bright with the engine not running as for a stock KLR with engine running.
If anyone wishes more information on how to do these mods, just PM and I'll walk you through the process.
I may not get back to a PM right away because Idon't visit here as frequently as when I was dualsporting.
Norm
imported post
The relay advice is the way to go.
If you want to add a nice touch to the installation, there are some additional considerations:
1) Connect the fuse lead to the battery side of the starter relay. This will provide power without connecting to the battery. Connecting to the battery is poor practice because the battery connections are more prone to corrosion. Connecting additional leads to the battery is a PIA when dealing with the battery because more wires mean more hassles when refitting.
2) Connect the ground terminal for the relay to the starter cable side of the starter relay rather than to a frame or body connection. This is also the way to go when installing headlight or other supply relays. The advantage to using the starter cable side of the starter relay to provide the ground connection for the accessory relay(s) is that the relay(s) will automatically turn off when the starter is operating. This will remove the load of non-essentials when starting which could make the difference with a low or weak battery.
You have installed headlight relays on your KLR haven't you?
The KLR has wiring which is too small so by-passing the stock wiring harness really improves the light. It also improves other circuits by reducing the load in the small wiring harness.
Another useful modification for the KLR is to ground the headlight directly to the frame rather than relying on the small sized common ground circuit wiring.
There is an easy to do, plug and play solution which avoids having to cut into the stock wiring harness. I did these mods on several KLR's and the headlight is improved to be as bright with the engine not running as for a stock KLR with engine running.
If anyone wishes more information on how to do these mods, just PM and I'll walk you through the process.
I may not get back to a PM right away because Idon't visit here as frequently as when I was dualsporting.
Norm
imported post
imported post
The relay advice is the way to go.
If you want to add a nice touch to the installation, there are some additional considerations:
1) Connect the fuse lead to the battery side of the starter relay. This will provide power without connecting to the battery. Connecting to the battery is poor practice because the battery connections are more prone to corrosion. Connecting additional leads to the battery is a PIA when dealing with the battery because more wires mean more hassles when refitting.
2) Connect the ground terminal for the relay to the starter cable side of the starter relay rather than to a frame or body connection. This is also the way to go when installing headlight or other supply relays. The advantage to using the starter cable side of the starter relay to provide the ground connection for the accessory relay(s) is that the relay(s) will automatically turn off when the starter is operating. This will remove the load of non-essentials when starting which could make the difference with a low or weak battery.
You have installed headlight relays on your KLR haven't you?
The KLR has wiring which is too small so by-passing the stock wiring harness really improves the light. It also improves other circuits by reducing the load in the small wiring harness.
Another useful modification for the KLR is to ground the headlight directly to the frame rather than relying on the small sized common ground circuit wiring.
There is an easy to do, plug and play solution which avoids having to cut into the stock wiring harness. I did these mods on several KLR's and the headlight is improved to be as bright with the engine not running as for a stock KLR with engine running.
If anyone wishes more information on how to do these mods, just PM and I'll walk you through the process.
I may not get back to a PM right away because Idon't visit here as frequently as when I was dualsporting.
Norm
imported post
The relay advice is the way to go.
If you want to add a nice touch to the installation, there are some additional considerations:
1) Connect the fuse lead to the battery side of the starter relay. This will provide power without connecting to the battery. Connecting to the battery is poor practice because the battery connections are more prone to corrosion. Connecting additional leads to the battery is a PIA when dealing with the battery because more wires mean more hassles when refitting.
2) Connect the ground terminal for the relay to the starter cable side of the starter relay rather than to a frame or body connection. This is also the way to go when installing headlight or other supply relays. The advantage to using the starter cable side of the starter relay to provide the ground connection for the accessory relay(s) is that the relay(s) will automatically turn off when the starter is operating. This will remove the load of non-essentials when starting which could make the difference with a low or weak battery.
You have installed headlight relays on your KLR haven't you?
The KLR has wiring which is too small so by-passing the stock wiring harness really improves the light. It also improves other circuits by reducing the load in the small wiring harness.
Another useful modification for the KLR is to ground the headlight directly to the frame rather than relying on the small sized common ground circuit wiring.
There is an easy to do, plug and play solution which avoids having to cut into the stock wiring harness. I did these mods on several KLR's and the headlight is improved to be as bright with the engine not running as for a stock KLR with engine running.
If anyone wishes more information on how to do these mods, just PM and I'll walk you through the process.
I may not get back to a PM right away because Idon't visit here as frequently as when I was dualsporting.
Norm