1990 Yamaha DT200R advice

vortexman

New member
I'd sure be interested in a diagnostic flow chart or sequence for 2t. I have an old 200exc that sometimes makes me go nuts, and it acts up halfway through the ride when i'm 20 miles out.
I say go for it.

We could put the full force of the DSBC brain trust on it but need a bit more info on the fault
 

red_si

New member
I was getting 80 k.m./tankful, til reserve. That put me at 10l/100k.m.! <snip>

I have a service manual, but chose to ignore it. I never followed ALL of the steps outlined. I figured the float height really couldn't be out of spec., as I had never ever changed it! Somehow, it did change though. Though I looked at the needle and seat and found them to be o.k., I was getting desperate, so I spent $40.00 for a new one from Yamaha!(Never knew the "blow" test!) Got a spare now, anyway! I do appreciate every one who posted. Got me thinking, then acting. Cheers!

Glad to hear you got your bike going. For reference, my DT200 consistently gets 4.7 l/100km primarily city street riding. Last ride I rode about 150 km and it took about 7 litres to refill the tank. For an old two smoke with short final drive that's not too bad.

Too bad about the snow. Hopefully you have set yourself up for some good spring riding then. Don't neglect to do some winterizing otherwise all your hard work on the carb will be undone. You don't have to do much to have a big impact. Either drain your gas tank entirely and swish some oil in there or top up the tank and put some fuel stabilizer in there (I like Seafoam). Drain the fuel from the carb float bowl. Remove the spark plug and fog the engine with some oil (again Seafoam is your friend). Put your battery on a trickle charger to keep the plate from sulphating together. Doesn't take long to do these few basic things.

You can do some other things too. For example, at the end of your last while the bike is still hot, drain the crankcase and coolant and refill. No point having old oil sit in there all winter. Take the opportunity to clean your chain with some kerosene. Maybe I'm preaching to the choir and you already know these things.

I've had a terrible time trying to find a manual for these old bikes. You wouldn't happen to have a PDF version of the manual would you?
 

Buck

Moderator
I have a photocopied manual for my 96 DT200 someplace.. It was displaced when moving. If I find it I'll let you know.
 

Buck

Moderator
96 dt200

96 dt200

After sitting for a few months, with fuel stabilizer, drained carb and a full tank, I turned on the fuel valve and gas was streaming out the float bowl vent. So I pulled off the carb, checked and cleaned it. No longer floods but will not idle unless the cold start lever is left on. After looking at the above posted flow chart, I'll guess it is the Slow jet or air passage clogged or restricted. Any comments before I pull off the carb once again?
 

gt750

Member
Glad to hear you got your bike going. For reference, my DT200 consistently gets 4.7 l/100km primarily city street riding. Last ride I rode about 150 km and it took about 7 litres to refill the tank. For an old two smoke with short final drive that's not too bad.

Too bad about the snow. Hopefully you have set yourself up for some good spring riding then. Don't neglect to do some winterizing otherwise all your hard work on the carb will be undone. You don't have to do much to have a big impact. Either drain your gas tank entirely and swish some oil in there or top up the tank and put some fuel stabilizer in there (I like Seafoam). Drain the fuel from the carb float bowl. Remove the spark plug and fog the engine with some oil (again Seafoam is your friend). Put your battery on a trickle charger to keep the plate from sulphating together. Doesn't take long to do these few basic things.

You can do some other things too. For example, at the end of your last while the bike is still hot, drain the crankcase and coolant and refill. No point having old oil sit in there all winter. Take the opportunity to clean your chain with some kerosene. Maybe I'm preaching to the choir and you already know these things.

I've had a terrible time trying to find a manual for these old bikes. You wouldn't happen to have a PDF version of the manual would you?

For a PDF Manual, go to "ITForum" for a download.
 

gt750

Member
If someone needs a DT200R manual I'd need to send it to you as it is too big. P.M. me with an email address.
 

Ketchthis

New member
If someone needs a DT200R manual I'd need to send it to you as it is too big. P.M. me with an email address.
Hi there gt750. I would like to get a copy of the dt200 service manual. I can't find one anywhere. Would you be able to make a copy for me. I will gladly pay you for your time and materials. Thanks
 

gt750

Member
I can send you what I have via email. It's divided into 4 files, due to the size. "Start Conversation" with me, by "Left clicking" on my name, then press the "Start Conversation" link. Excuse my tardiness in replying, please.
 

Jonathan

New member
I have a 1990 DT200R, with only 3500 km on it. Have had it for 6 years or so, and have not ridden it much. It was working well, a couple years ago, but is now using a LOT of fuel and will not run cleanly at a steady speed. Compression is 140 p.s.i.. It's stock. Cleaned out the carb and replaced the "float needle and seat". Replaced the pilot jet and cleaned out the main jet. Had to coat the tank two years ago, due to rust, but it looks good now. Spark looked good when I kicked it over with the plug out. Noticed the petcock is leaking a bit right now, and have ordered a "rebuild kit" from Wemoto in England. My intuition says I am missing something in the carb.?
Do any previous/current owners know what speed a person can cruise on the highway at, reasonably? Top speed? Also, what fuel mileage would you get out of a tankful? Maybe at hwy. speeds and at slower off road/gravel road speeds? Any help would be appreciated.
I'd lusted after a DT200R since I first saw them in Cycle Canada in the late 80's. Then when I saw one in a dealership, I was hooked! When it's running well, it'll keep up to a lot more expensive iron, I believe. Also, it's a TWO STROKE! Thanks again for your help.
200cc 2stroke with the rider aerodynamics of a small parachute, 50mph/80kph comfortable max cruise, 60mph/100kph getting a shift on, 70mph/110kph lying flat with the throttle wound fully open. Fuel consumption of the order of 30mpg (sorry, expat Brit unable to convert miles per imperial gallon to litres per 100km). Wound fully open 10-15mpg. Well it is a two stroke. Has your bike got the ypvs system? They can coke up.....?
 

gt750

Member
I'm a 200 pound rider and have seen 140 km/h! This bike has 30 h.p. and weighs 268 pounds wet. Goes better than you might think. I believe it would beat a DRZ400S. This bike gets about 5L/100 km, or 47 mpg(US Gallons).
My motorcycle does have the YPVS. As with most maintenance items, power valve cleaning is a simple process. I have not had to clean mine yet. But, I still have the original piston! Use high quality engine oil and you'll be golden.
 

rmarc

New member
Hi All, hoping you can help me out. I'm looking for the float height setting for the 1990 DT200r 3ET. All I could find was 21mm but that seems to be for the older models pre-89. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

gt750

Member
If you send me your email address, I can send you the Factory Service Manual Supplement. Yamaha's Service Manual consists of a "supplement" on the DT200R in the front of the Manual, followed by the DT125R manual. The DT125R manual is easy to find online. The supplement for the 200R, not so easy.
The float height is 20 to 21 m.m., or .79 to .81".
For some reason I can't get the text in the "spec." box to show up!? Here's what it says:
Main Jet-#150
Main Air Jet-0.5
Jet Needle- 5J10-4
Needle Jet- P-2
Pilot Jet- #25
Power Jet- #65
Float Height- 20-21 mm (0.79-0.83 in)
Engine Idle Speed- 1300-1400 r/min
1622548268291.png
 
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