300 Watt Stator

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Norm

New member
Two 300 Watt ElectoSport stators installed. So far more output on mine. It sits at 14+ volts with grip heaters, vest, 100 Watt high beam, etc. which is a one volt improvement over the stock stator. The difference also is that the battery will recarge at 14 volts but not at 13.

Both bikes are A18's and running stock regulators. Anyone had experience with higher output KLR stators?

Anyone measure the regulator/rectifier temperature?

Norm
 
N

Norm

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The stator isn't the whole answer. IMO Headlight relays and an accessory relay are musts because of the voltage drop in the original circuits. That and there is no way to adequately power accessories from the original wiring.

I also recommend a voltmeter so that you know what is happening with the charging system. Some thought needs to be incorporated as to where the voltmeter is corrected.

HIH

Norm
 
F

Fjr eh

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I've ordered the 3 kits from totallywiredcycles.com

I use a Datel on my FJR, but it's a panel mount.

What about that one that uses the coloured lights?

Mark
 
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Norm

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Some of them look OK but I'm a dinosaur and prefer an analog gauge. Also most of the bike ones don't seem to be that weatherproof so some research would be in order. Several friends have a combination unit with volts, temperature and a remote temperature probe which can be mounted in the air stream below the fairing. I envy the thermometer as it is pretty interesting to monitor ambient temperature on rides.

If you're near Chilliwack, give me a shout if you want a hand doing the stator.

Oh yes, make sure you get the later model if ordering the ElectroSport because the later model has the engine case grommets and plug to connect to the wiring harness which saves about an hour on the install.

Norm
 
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Norm

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Some prefer digital, some prefer analog. When selecting a digital unit it might be well to heed their advice about not selecting a two decimal reading unit becuase they do cycle a lot on a bike and can be hard to read.

I did have to chuckle over their ad which states their digital units are ideal to replace hard to read analog then cautioned about not selecting their hard to read digital option. Many people believe that digital units are more accurate than analog which is not correct. The accuracy depends on the quality of the device.

Sorry but my post must have been poorly written as I meant to make sure that the stator was the latest model. Otherwise you will have to transfer the original stator's rubber grommets to the new stator wires. In addition, you will have to feed the new stator's wires through a loom (supplied) which is a real PIA because the loom binds on the wires which made it impossible to feed the wires through the full length of loom. I was forced to cut the loom and install it in two pieces which will work a=OK but an additional task.

Following installation of the wires through the loom, connectors must be attached to the wires and the connectors installed in the original plastic plug. This wasa nuisance but would be a real problem for someone not experienced in removing wire terminals from wiring plugs.

The new model ElectroSport stator is a plug and play with grommets supplied, loom, terminals and plug supplied installed. Far better! Just make sure you order the one with the stuff installed.

One aspect of the install I did prefer when doing my older model to Poco Red's new model was that this allowed the loom to be trimmed where it lies inside the stator cover. Tony located his loom in a small loop/kink near the retainer plate which looked like it was the ideal solution to the loomed wires being a bit too long between stator and grommets.

Given the choice I'd definitely opt for the later model stator however in either event, make sure that the stator wires are well back in the cover so that there is no possibility of the flywheel (rotor) rubbing against with wires.

Some failures of the ElectroSport stators have been reported but I wonder if some could be due to the wires not being placed properly to avoid having the rotor rub through the wires.

I have not talked directly with anyone who reported a failure but have talked with a number who are happy with the ElectroSport units.

Please keep me posted as to the progress of your project.

Norm
 
N

Norm

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Bummer. If you need a hand give me a post and I'll try to walk you through it. Or come up fora tech day.

Have you done the Doohickey? If not, it would be a good time to do both as you are part way there.

The skinning of the original grommets is a PIA but not rocket science. I have found that the easiest way to deal with these molded-in-place grommets is to slice the grommet across, parallel with each wire down to the surface of the wire using a sharp shop knife. When the surface of the wire's insulation is reached, carry on around the wire, cutting the grommet away from the wire's insulation while keeping as close to the insulation as possible.

The grommet can be bent open quite well in order to gain clearance to work as one goes around the wire. At the 1/3 way point, it is time to start back at the top and go around the other way as it is possible to tear the grommet if too much pressure is applied.

I use silicone RTV to coat the wires and inside of the grommet holes. On installation coating the outside of the grommet with RTV usually does the job. Go easy on the RTV so that big globs aren't dropping inside the engine.

Removing the wires from the wiring plug is also not a big deal. Each wire terminal has a small finger which is bent outward from the terminal before installation. The finger catches against a slot in the plastic plug to prevent the terminal from being withdrawn from the plug. In order to remove the terminal from the plug it is necessary to press the "finger" back against the body of the terminal. Once the "finger" is pushed back, it will remain there and the terminal can be withdrawn from the end by which the wire enters the plug housing.

I have special tools made to manipulate the terminal retaining finger but a thin pick of other implement can be used. The important thing is not to wedge the hole enough to damage the plug.

I recommend that you buy six new spade lug connectors so that you don't have to go through the exercise of prying the terminals open to release each wire and reattach to the new stator's wire. Regardless, I recommend that you solder the wires to the terminals as this absolutely prevents the connections from corroding.

Another advantage of buying new spade lug terminals (make sure you get the type with the retainer "finger") is that the old statorcould be much more easily reinstalled if needed.

Oh, yes, the instructions were not clear as to which of the two ignition wires (three yellow stator AC wires) goes to which colour wire in the new stator harness goes to which colour in the harness plug. I've misplaced my notes so will have to find them but it's not a big deal as the worst which will happen is that there will be no spark and the two wires will need to be removed from the plug and reversed.

I can let you know when the notes are found.

HIH

Norm
 
F

Fjr eh

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Norm,

I'm tackling the 300 watt statortonight, will proceed with assembly tomorrow.

Those grommets are a pain in the ***.
Also installingthe three ATO fuse kits.


Mark
 
N

Norm

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The grommets certainly are a pain. The later stator with the grommets and plug are certainly a lot easier. I used a shop knife to skin the grommets off the wires by slicing parallel to the each wire down to the wire's insulation and then around the wire. When ready to install the grommets, I opened each slice and worked silicone RTV around each wire, then coated the outside of the grommets.

As for the wire colour codes: when the plug is wire side up with the open (regulator end) end of the plug down and the three stator wires (yellow or white) away from you, the brown wire is on the left. Sorry, there's probably an easier way to describe it but that's how it sits on the regulator.

I relocated the regulator on the side of the frame just ahead of the tank today. Big job! Bigger than the stator replacement & Doohickey.

I fabricated a 1/4" aluminium plate which bolts under the overflow tank and wiring support frames on the right side. Another hole was drilled and tapped into the frame below and to the front to attach the plate. The regulator was surfaced with sand paper on a flat surface, coated with silicone dielectric grease to aid heat transfer and bolted to the plate.

Skinning the harness back to free the regulator wires far enough ahead to allow them to pass under the frame and reach the regulator took a long time.

Of note to anyone who might be looking for an electrical gremlin is that there is a ground wire junction and a power wire junction in the harness just ahead of where the battery wires join the harness. These connections are butt connectors and not soldered. They are taped into the harness but might, just possibly get corroded if the bike was sunk so might be worth adding to one's notes.

A heavier power wire was added from the regulator back, a heavier ground wire and a ground wire will be spliced in and connected to the frame at the front. (forgot to do this when I can back from eating)

Modification number 76 completed. Soon there will be nothing left to modify.....



Norm
 
F

Fjr eh

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Norm,

Done for the night, my going to left the RTV set up.

I'm the second owner of this KLR, the rider was a BC Dual Sport Member.

so the KLR has these modifcations,

Steel Braided front brake line.

Progressive front fork springs, 10 wt oil

Upgraded headlight bulb (90/100watt)

LED rear brake light (strobing)

Cig. lighter acc. plug.

Bypass clutch switch

Happy trails rad guard

IMS foot pegs

IMS Shifter

Utah Sport skid plate

Sub-frame upgrade bolt kit

Eagle Mike Doohickey kit

Emgp Bark busters

Rental desert bend 666 bars

CNC risers 1"

carb "t" mod

shock flap

Shimmed carb needle, idle mix 2.5 turns

CNC brake bracket and master cylinder guard

raising links - 1"

Mark





 
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Norm

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I'm the only owner. Mods to date:

Modifications to My KLR


1) Sewer pipe toolbox

2) Headlight bulb PIAA 80/110 watt

3) Mini fuses & holders to LH frame 15 amp.

4) Cooling fan fuse to lower support

5) Dash

6) Voltmeter

7) Oil pressure gauge

8) LED illumination for gauges & switches

9) High beam off switch

10) Cooling fan on/automatic switch

11) Givi E350 Flow trunk

12) Utah engine guard

13) Emgo lever guards

14) Doohickey

15) 1 ½” lowering links

16) 1 ½” shortened side stand

17) Safety switch by-pass switch

18) LED tail light bulb

19) 9”over Kawasaki windshield

20) Gears brand magnetic tank bag

21) Chatterbox AM/FM radio

22) Chatterbox helmet speakers

23) Linear amplifier

24) Renthal cross bar pad

25) Magnetic drain plug

26) HT Radiator guard

27) Carburetor idle mixture plug

28) Drill throttle slide 1/8”

29) Brake pad anti-squeal compound

30) GPS mount

31) Cigarette lighter plug for GPS

32) Bowl vent “T” modification

33) Steel case guard plate siliconed behind shifter

34) Kendal K270 tires

35) Pedal saver cables to brake & shifter levers

37) Frame bolt upgrade

38) Foot peg bolt upgrade

39) Edge trim around cooling fan shroud & dash

40) Garage remote installed

41) Kawasaki rear master cylinder guard

42) Throttle rocker throttle assist

43) Happy Trails panniers & mounts –Teton Canyon Cut 9x15x18 w/silver powder coat.

44) Tank protector stick-on under tank bag area

45) Front Shocks to ATF

46) Bicycle hand pump wrap-tied to front brake hose under bar pad

47) Moved shifter upward to accommodate MX boots.

48) Install carriage bolt and spacer washers to space brake pedal upward.

49) Spare front & rear tubes in rubber pouches wrap-tied to left front inside engine guard.

50) Helmet lock relocated to RR turn signal mounting bar.

51) IMS folding shift lever.

52) Arrowhead 90-degree fuel filter.

53) EBC-FA67R Sintered Rear Brake Pads

54) Tire changing prop wrap-tied to bottom of sewer pipe tool carrier

55) High mount LED brake light into Givi trunk

56) Grote 72100-5 High Tone horn

57) Modified seat foam & reinstalled stock suspension links.

58) Welded extension to side stand.

59) Removed air box screen & inlet snorkel

60) Shimmed carburetor needle up 0.020”.

61) Installed 252 main jet & removed needle shim

62) IMS Super Stock Foot Pegs #273116

63) Electronic flasher (Tridon HD12)

64) 4 Way Flashers.

65) Headlight relays installed. (High beam Vd from 1.5 V to 0.12V)

66) Relocated license plate

67) Fuse & wiring for electric vest.

68) Vest plug adapter for Motion Pro Optimate III charger

69) LED license plate light

70) LED light to illuminate LH side of dash

71) WFO bar handgrip heater elements

72) ElectroSport ES450 300 watt stator

73) 12 gauge wire between white output wire on reg/rectifier and battery side of starter relay.

74) Grease nipples (4) added to rear shock linkage

75) Grease nipple added to RH side of steering head tube

76) Relocated regulator to frame RH side ahead of tank.



To do:



Add grease nipples to swing arm ends

Aluminum plate siliconed to LH side of radiator.
 
N

Norm

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It seems better to have the rectifier in a better air flow location. Bill Watson has done some measurements of the operating temperatures of the regulator and air flows int he under seat area. His conclusion was that there is good air flow under the seat without the rider but the rider's legs interfere with air flow. It sounds like Kawi checked the air flow in a wind tunnel, sans rider.

Given that there is no reported failure problem with regulators it probably isn't necessary but I like to improve so there it is. I also have designs on the under seat area for tool storage and placing anything over the regulator would be poor practice.

I caution anyone considering moving the regulator/rectifier that it was a bigger job than the Doo and stator. That and not fun. It requires stripping of the wire harness loom to free enough wire length to reach the steering head and adding extra length to ground and power wires. In addition, the operation is a balance between removing components to allow access to the harness versus shifting the harness back and forth to allow it to be stripped, re-routed, and then re-wrapped with tape.

Don't plan to do this one at a tech day here! (VBG)

HIH


Norm
 
D

dooveman

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Norm, time to buy a new bike. Your running out of things to do!;)

Brian
 
N

Norm

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I know! Fortunately, Bill Watson is sending us some temperature gauge overlays which are calibrated in degrees F. I plan to install that and recalibrate the speedo.

Only about four items on the to do list now. Guess I'll have to go and ride as an alternative. (VBG)



Norm
 
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