Batteries!

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Rylan

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Hey guys,

does anybody have dry cell battery and if so, do you like it?

I'm needing a new battery and I was wondering if dry cells are the way to go or not.

Thanks,

Rylan
 
Island Hopper

Island Hopper

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My 03 KTM 640 came stock with a Yuasa sealed maintenance free battery and just this winter I finally had to replace it....

I was impressed by the service life of battery so I shopped around and ordered the same type for a replacement...

I looked at the price through KTM and it was about $240 {ouch!} too expensive...

I found one through Battery World for about $140 and jumped on it....
 
O

old trials guy

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Rylan wrote:
Hey guys,

does anybody have dry cell battery and if so, do you like it?

I'm needing a new battery and I was wondering if dry cells are the way to go or not.

Thanks,

Rylan
Click to expand...


What do you mean when you say dry cell, like an alkaline,NiMH or lithium battery?
I don't see how any of the dry cell technologies would work with your charging system. Are you referring to sealed lead acid or gel cell batteries?

otg
 
S

sueandal

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My 03 KTM 640 came stock with a Yuasa sealed maintenance free battery and just this winter I finally had to replace it.

island hopper


my 04 525 also came with Yuasa like island hopper, i dont think it would be called dry cell. at purchase the employee fills the battery with the supplied acid and puts the top on. there is nothing to unscrew on top - so its a sealed battery.

i got mine from gnarly parts- a dsbc sponsor, worth a price check-

apparently two very common sizes. mine -smaller less power- and the larger (drz etc.)

i asked about lithium and they are available

i would like to know how many AA batteries = my bike battery?
at 1.25 V each 9=11.25V 10=12.5V
then add a bunch more for the amperage
sure would be nice for changing the batteries on the camera etc.
i'm guessing the physical size (all those AA) would be way larger so that = no good.
al
 
R

Rylan

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yeah,

I guess, technically, it's not called "dry cell" as in powder inside, but I went togoogle and typed in dry cell and it gave me a web site called Odessey batteries and they hadmotorcycle batteries.

Aftertalking to PacYamBMW they told me they only had acid batteries for my bike, F650gs, and so I decided to go to Burnaby Kawasaki, they didn't have one but told me about Edmonds Battery,sooo, down the road I went and sure enough they had"dry cell" batteries, but it was like"sueandal" was saying, he has to fill it up and then it's sealed and prettymuch maintanence free. I guess what happens is the cells inside soak up the acid and act like a sponge, absorbing all the acid, so you can mount the battery upside-down if you want:?as well as poke a hole in it and it won't leak.

He was saying that if you're not riding the bike for the winter months just to charge it once a month and the thing should last 5 yrs or so.

Anyways, to make a long story a little longer,I purchased it and have to pick it up around noon. It cost$75.00+ tax.

Hope it's a good one.

Thanks for the replies everyone and safe riding.
 
O

old trials guy

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Here is a excerpt from Wiki:

Valve regulated lead acid batteries

Main article: VRLA
The Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) battery is one of many types of lead-acid batteries. In a VRLA battery the hydrogen and oxygen produced in the cells largely recombine back into water. In this way there is minimal leakage, though some electrolyte still escapes if the recombination cannot keep up with gas evolution. Since VRLA batteries do not require (and make impossible) regular checking of the electrolyte level, they have been called Maintenance Free (MF) batteries. However, this is somewhat of a misnomer. VRLA cells do require maintenance. As electrolyte is lost, VRLA cells may experience "dry-out" and lose capacity. This can be detected by taking regular internal resistance, conductance or impedance measurements of cells. This type of testing should be conducted on a regular basis, as an indicator that more involved testing and maintenance may be required. Recent maintenance procedures have been developed allowing "rehydration" of cells that have experienced dry-out, often restoring significant amounts of the lost capacity.

VRLA types became popular on motorcycles[when?][/suP] because the acid electrolyte is absorbed into the medium which separates the plates, so it cannot spill.[citation needed][/suP] This medium also lends support to the plates which helps them better to withstand vibration. They are also popular in stationary applications such as telecommunications sites, due to their small footprint and flexibility of installation.[citation needed][/suP]

The electrical characteristics of VRLA batteries differ somewhat from wet-cell lead-acid batteries, and caution should be exercised in charging and discharging them.

Of the several types of VRLA batteries are:[citation needed][/suP]

  • Absorbent glass mat battery (AGM)
  • Gel battery (gel cell)
  • Sealed lead-acid battery
What you likely have is a sealed lead-acid battery. I would suggest it is best that they are not inverted unnecesarily to maximize life.

I hope this added some clarity.....otg
 
Sparkle

Sparkle

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y'all:


I've often thought of building a battery pack for my old bike using left-over NiCads, Lithium-ion, or Nickel hydride batteries but I've learned it could be a big mistake.

Normallead-acid batteries have such a high internal resistance that they can only pass so much current even under a dead short. This self regulation is a safety feature in that a dead short may cause some sparks or a blown fuse, but that's aboutall.Usual automotive and motorcyclebatteries (Gell-Cells, Lead-Acid, Sealed Lead-Acid) are used because they are easy to charge using simple circuitry, they provide voltage regulation without added devices, they're safe and they don't cost much.

On the other hand, super batteries (NiCad, Lithium-ion, or Nickel metal hydride) batteries can pass hundreds of amps in a split second and an accidental momentary short can cause a severe meltdown or even an explosion. Uncontrolled charging current can do the same. Manufactured super-battery packs usually have an on-board ESC or regulating device to limit the current flow along with a sophisticated charging circuitto make sure they operatesafely.

I've oftentaken apart a laptop battery pack and wondered what all those extra circuit boards are for....well, that's what they're for.

I've also discoveredbuilding a home-made battery pack using super-batteries, including the control circuit for current limiting and charging cycles is well beyond my capabilities as an experienced electronics builder, however there are some commercial items from china I saw recently that sound promising as well assome from this supplier:

http://www.tekbattery.com/battery_prices.html

You'll note the price even for a small battery pack is around $1000 CAN. probably more than my bike is worth!

Also, soon to be available:

http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2007/02/02/lithium-ion-polymer-motorcycle-batteries/

I guess I'll just stick to my normal Yuasa 6N6-3B....about $20 every 4 years, rather than make my bike a bomb.

I've also learned to check my battery fluid level every week in the summer and make sure the fluid is well over the plates, replacing it with distilled water. If you do that, your cheapstopper-top batterywill last as long as a sealed unit.

hmmmm....that's about 2 cents.

Sparkle
 
R

Rylan

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Well,

I go to get this battery and the guy looks in the book at f650gs and only has a listing for an '09, I've got an '05, I take a look at the battery and it looks like it's the right size.

I take it home and pull my old battery out, half the cells were empty:p, I did fill it up start of the riding season, and tried to put the new one in. Sure enough the piece-o-shite was about a cm too big and the pos/neg were on the wrong side.

Well, poop, I thought, now what? I call Norm up at the battery shop and he says he'll take it back and swap it for another one:shock:. Sweet, I thought for sure I'd get stuck with a SUPER heavy paper weight, but Norm was cool about the whole thing.

Anyways, I guess it helps if I measure the darn things in the first place.

They didn't have what I was looking for, for my year/model bike, but they had other ones.

I'll wait for the next bike before I drop $200 on a battery.

Thanks for the replies everyone.
 
R

Rylan

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Thanks,

I put some thought into it and I am trying to justify buying an expensive battery if I'm not running heated jackets, pants, gloves, cappaccino machine, dishwasher and a TV. Even at $150 for one, I can get the battery I just bought for $50 and have it last the same amount of time (2-3yrs if I take good care of it).

I figure a cheaper one should do the trick and I'll just have to maintain it better

I'll have to remember that for the next bike, as for now I'll stick with the cheaper battery.

cheers
 
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