Bead breaking with just tire levers

Hamon

Member
When it comes to bead breaking, there are several schools of thought:

-There are those who rely on having another bike around to use the sidestand to pop the bead off. (What happens when you ride on your own? It's kinda tough to break a bead with your own sidestand when you have a wheel off the bike.)

-There are those who risk life and rim by riding for a while on a flat to pop the bead and heat the tire up, making for an easier change. (What happens if you don't run rimlocks and want to reuse the tube? What happens if you spin a rim and tear a valve stem?)

-There are those who pack an extra C-clamp for the sole purpose of breaking the bead. (Why carry so much extra volume/weight for only one purpose?)

-There are those who pay a shop to change tires and pray that nothing happens when out riding. (I ride a KLR. This is unfathomable.)



Myself, I like the idea of being able to break the bead without any help, specialized tools, or risking more damage to an already damaged tire.. I ride alone, which makes the sidestand trick impossible. I don't run rim locks, so riding on a flat could spell the end to an otherwise fixable tube (by tearing the valve stem). A C-clamp is bulkier than I'm willing to pack, especially when it's only really for one purpose. And, we already established that I'm a cheap-a** by the fact that I ride a KLR. I'm not gonna pay somebody else to change my tires.

The answer is simple: use the tools you've got. I bring 3 tire irons with me on any ride:

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It takes a bit of practice, but once you have the technique down, it's fairly simple to do. Here's how to use these three irons to break a bead in a controlled fashion with no stomping, whining, c-clamps, or relying on another bike:

Get your tire off, the valve out,and start with one iron, inside of spoon facing away from the tire:

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Wedge it in and get your second iron in, same way (outside of spoon against the tire):

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Lever both irons down, forcing the tire away from the rim:

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At this point, you'll be able to look inside and see where the tire bead has seated into the rim. There should be a little gap between the bead and the seat:

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Get your third iron in, opposite to the other two. If you're using Motion Pro irons with the nice little lip at the end of the spoon, it should "click" nicely into the gap between the bead and the seat:

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With your two original irons, push down, compressing the tire away from the rim. With your third iron, pull up, separating the tire's bead from the bead seat (forgive the picture, I did the photos on my own, and this is a part where you really need two hands):

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You may have to move your third iron (the iron we're unseating the bead with) to several locations to loosen the bead enough. Keep pushing down with the other two, and lever the bead off with your third. Finally, you should get here:

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Keep moving around the tire, popping the rest of the bead off. It'll be easy once you get the first 8th done. Satisfaction:

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Do the same on the other side:

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And you know the rest:

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Look, ma! No blood!

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Granted, this was a controlled, warm environment. It also works elsewhere:

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Hope this helps!

Travis
 

tomcycle

Past President DSBC 2004 -2018
Staff member
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-There are those who risk life and rim by riding for a while on a flat to pop the bead and heat the tire up, making for an easier change. (What happens if you don't run rimlocks and want to reuse the tube? What happens if you spin a rim and tear a valve stem?)

Flats are a part of life when you own a dual sport bike:)When I purchased my first DS bike some years ago, I only had a vague idea on how to fix a flat on the trail.:(

Good method that you have suggested, more importantly is that you know what your going to do when you get that flat. Thanks for the post and nice job with the pictures too:tup:

And now:hijacked

For me the "ride until the bead popsmethod" has worked for many years, and have yet to damage my tube. You dont have to ride for miles and heat up the tire. If you tire is flat usually 50 to 100 feet will do the trick, If its a KLR that has had the tire on for 3 years and 23,000 kms you might have to go a little further.

If you are riding by yourself, I cant uderstant why you would be out there without a set of rim locks:shoot:. At least with rim locks you will be able to ride out to safety with a flat tire, who cares about the 12.00 tube when there isa warm dry bed foryou when it get dark.There are stories here on this forum of guys who went out on their own and had to walk out because they got a flat and the tire came off the rim (im guessing no rim locks)

Rim Locks, they are cheaper that slimand they work

Tom
 

Phoenix

New member
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It's like dejavu, used this method to help out a fellow DSBC'r four hours before you posted, but then again Travis you had already shown me the method at the flat tire social:tup:.

Cheers, Alex.
 

cactusreid

Active member
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i've flipped a lot of tires in my time,but i just learned an other trick to put in my bag o tricks. thks cactusreid
 

Yak_KLR650

New member
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I just used this method today tobreak the bead onthe Trailwings on my V
Strom. Very slick! Thanks for the tip.
 

el burro rojo

New member
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Thanks for ideas and snaps - yikes - better closeups than "Deep Throat"! One of your irons has a box end - saw them once on E-bay but lost the thread - where do they come from?

KLR too and yes I'm to cheap to buy a Beemer. This is my first dual purpose, bought it last October so just hit my 1000kms and about the same time picked up my first staple - about a 1/2 hour up the Comox Lake Logging road. My first flat in 15 years of riding - but that was road riding. Lucky I had a cell phone, good hiking boots and a wife with a pickup and ramp. So now I've got a spare tube/patch kit/hand pump but looking tire irons. Thanks for the encouragement.

Derek
 

Hamon

Member
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el burro rojo wrote:
Thanks for ideas and snaps - yikes - better closeups than "Deep Throat"! One of your irons has a box end - saw them once on E-bay but lost the thread - where do they come from?

KLR too and yes I'm to cheap to buy a Beemer. This is my first dual purpose, bought it last October so just hit my 1000kms and about the same time picked up my first staple - about a 1/2 hour up the Comox Lake Logging road. My first flat in 15 years of riding - but that was road riding. Lucky I had a cell phone, good hiking boots and a wife with a pickup and ramp. So now I've got a spare tube/patch kit/hand pump but looking tire irons. Thanks for the encouragement.

Derek

Hi Derek,

The box end tire iron is a Motion Pro T-6 tire lever. You can find them at your local bike dealer (hopefully even a DSBC sponsor) or online also. With the stock KLRtool kit, they give you tools to take off the rear tire, but no wrenches to take off the front wheel. I picked up a 22mm (if I remember correctly) T-6 lever, which gives me a wrench for the front wheel also.

I personally like 3 tire irons. My tip: when the time comes to replace the tires on your KLR, do it yourself. It takes a bit of time but pays dividends when you get another flat on the road/gravel/trail.

My first and only flat is where the last picture in my tutorial comes from. Because I've changed all my own tires, it was a snap; I knew what I had to do, what tools to have, and what techniques to use. I was back on the road in about an hour.

Travis
 

Hamon

Member
It's actually wood. And it's a stick.

If that's not enough information, it's a chunk of 3/4" dowel that I've cut to prop up the non-sidestand side for tire changes, chain lubes, and the like. It works pretty darn well, takes up very little room, and isn't very heavy. You can buy adjustable ones, or just make one. If I remember correctly, it's about 16" or something.

Travis
 
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