Chain saw

[DirtClunker]

The new price of the Stihl 192 is $350 and the 201 is $700. Does a guy *really* need to have to 201? or will the 192 work OK? This will *only* be used for the occasional trail clearing work. up to 8" windfall, etc. Anything bigger and I will call in someone who knows how to cut trees.

I would like to buy one used too, but have a hard time finding one. If anyone has a decent one to sell, let me know.

Oh - and what do you use for a chainsaw backpack? Anything that can also hold a hydration pack and a phone?

thanks

 

[Island Hopper]

The 201 is more of a professional use saw than the 192... I believe it is similar to the older 200 but had changes made to meet new emissions requirements...

For the use you describe the 192 should be more than adequate to do the job, unless you want to go all out and rip some bridges:http://youtu.be/oQgRfGoNrMA

 

[Island Hopper]

I've done quite a bit of trail work and have come up with a few carry methods... For carrying, fuel, water, saw tools, ect: I rigged a "jet pack" which is basically a belt with shoulder rigging to carry fuel/oil/water bottle holders, a file holder and the lot on your person as you work with the saw... I have a lightweight pack frame to strap the saw to along with anything else I may need...

If I know I'm going to only need to do a few cuts then I first lay a foam pad on the bikes rear luggage rack and then strap the fueled up saw onto that with the bar facing back... I forgo carrying all the extras and maybe just carry a half liter of fuel, a small flask of bar oil, a file and a bar wrench in a knapsack...

 

[McNutt]

Most people I know buying a saw for trail work go for the ms 170. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms170/ My ms 210, similar to the 170 has been through hell over the past 7 years clearing quad, moto and building and clearing mtb trails, and still going strong. I use a Dakine builders pack which is very well made and thought out.

You will do great with the 192, the 201 is way more than you need.

 

[Island Hopper]

The nice thing about the 2 saws the O.P. mentioned is their compact design as they are designed from the get go for limb removal and in tree work... The conventional saws are about four inches longer as they have the rear set handle and do not stow as nice in a pack... The little tree saws usually have a more a snappy power delivery and a higher power to weight ratio than the comparable displacement/size conventional saw....

If your looking to buy used then a conventional small saw will be a lot easier to come by than the arborist saws...

 

[McNutt]

The nice thing about the 2 saws the O.P. mentioned is their compact design as they are designed from the get go for limb removal and in tree work... The conventional saws are about four inches longer as they have the rear set handle and do not stow as nice in a pack... The little tree saws usually have a more a snappy power delivery and a higher power to weight ratio than the comparable displacement/size conventional saw....

If your looking to buy used then a conventional small saw will be a lot easier to come by than the arborist saws...

Agreed, for what the op is looking for the 192 looks great. The conventional saws like the 170 have more grunt and a better handle for larger trees. Using saws is very dangerous but I would not limit myself to 8 inch limbs and that's where the 170 would be better.

 

[250ccforme]

+1 on the Dakine Builder Pack.
A top handle saw fits into the body of the pack very nicely rather than being further away from your body. I never thought I'd like a top handle saw until I used the MTB club's saw (Stihl MS200). The pack doesn't have a hydration bladder pocket but I carry a 2L bladder in the pocket opposite where the fuel bottle is shown. The hard hat and the army surplus folding shovel/pick go where the pics above show the saw. I also carry a pair of old MTB leg armour to wear while sawing. Makes kneeling way more comfortable, no need to worry about getting a rock right at the bottom of the kneecap.
The club saw has a 16" bar and enough oomph (if kept sharp) to work through logs where it's all buried, just let it set the pace. Way better power to weight ratio than my conventional saw with the same displacement.
The Builder pack straps on the CycleRack on the moto and is well padded so it's comfortable when MTBing. Never thought I'd be riding a bicycle with a chainsaw on my back!
Islandhopper, watched the vid, that's quite the operation. Made my back hurt just watching you work your way down that log! What displacement is that saw? bar length? No way is Stihl 200 doing that job!

Pics below added well after above was posted, technical difficulties.

 

[canuck_fe]

I've been looking for a 192 used for a long time...tough to come by.

Now I just have to follow you

 

[DirtClunker]

Thanks all for the good advice. I'll probably pick up a 192 and just get it over with.

Canuck, as for you, my friend - I am heading out to boyds this weekend to clear out some old and long forgotten trails. I think you should come and we can do the monty python "its just a flesh wound" thing with the chainsaw. Beats us using the damn pruning saw again - takes so damn long to cut through an arm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKhEw7nD9C4

 

[kaos]

Stihl 170 with a 14 in bar has served me well.cheap to buy,and hasn't given an issue over the couple seasons of trail building.got a pack ($40)from the outdoor warehouse that fits the saw,fisker axe.machete and fuel - oil , it has the separate back support structure that lets Me ride at a spirited pace fully loaded.
Cant say enough about the fisker stuff,keeps its edge,the machete kicks ass and they are guaranteed for life

 

[McNutt]

+1 on the Dakine Builder Pack.
A top handle saw fits into the body of the pack very nicely rather than being further away from your body. I never thought I'd like a top handle saw until I used the MTB club's saw (Stihl MS200). The pack doesn't have a hydration bladder pocket but I carry a 2L bladder in the pocket opposite where the fuel bottle is shown. The hard hat and the army surplus folding shovel/pick go where the pics above show the saw. I also carry a pair of old MTB leg armour to wear while sawing. Makes kneeling way more comfortable, no need to worry about getting a rock right at the bottom of the kneecap.
The club saw has a 16" bar and enough oomph (if kept sharp) to work through logs where it's all buried, just let it set the pace. Way better power to weight ratio than my conventional saw with the same displacement.
The Builder pack straps on the CycleRack on the moto and is well padded so it's comfortable when MTBing. Never thought I'd be riding a bicycle with a chainsaw on my back!
Islandhopper, watched the vid, that's quite the operation. Made my back hurt just watching you work your way down that log! What displacement is that saw? bar length? No way is Stihl 200 doing that job!

Why don't you use the external pocket for the saw, that's what its for? If your on a budget just get a pack as Kaos did, and yes the fiskers tools are very good. They go on sale at crappy tire now and then.

 

[250ccforme]

It fits in there better and keeps the weight closer to my body, which means it's more stable especially while bicycling steep downhills. My conventional saw doesn't work well in the intended pocket at all, not sure which saw they used as a template when they built the Builder. I often use things somewhat differently than their manufacturer envisioned. Think freely.

I have yet to install it but for the moto I picked up a Kolpin Sawpress which looks as though it will mount on the CycleRacks just fine. That will make the saw even easier to use with the moto.

 

[Island Hopper]

Islandhopper, watched the vid, that's quite the operation. Made my back hurt just watching you work your way down that log! What displacement is that saw? bar length? No way is Stihl 200 doing that job!

The saw is a Husky 288 XP {88cc} and on that particular log because of it's smaller size I used a 28" bar... Ripping the bigger logs I'll run a 33" bar and for bucking a 36" bar works good for a 5' D log... The biggest log I ever ripped and quartered was an 11' fir and for that we used a most horrible beast, a Stihl 090 with a 6'bar...
I am more a fan of the Husky chain saws as years back when I used to thin trees they were the ones that worked best... At that time Stihl made a very good large falling saw but couldn't compete when it came to the mid size displacement class...

I just burnt up my trusty Husky 371 2 weeks back ripping logs... That 371 owes me nothing as I ran it hard for almost 15 yrs, thinning, blocking ,trailwork, ripping and general duty around the sawmill...The only thing I ever did was throw in a new piston ring about 10 yrs ago...

 

[250ccforme]

Looked up the spec for the Stihl 090, 137cc. Wow! Cut what? ANYTHING!!

 

[McNutt]

It fits in there better and keeps the weight closer to my body, which means it's more stable especially while bicycling steep downhills. My conventional saw doesn't work well in the intended pocket at all, not sure which saw they used as a template when they built the Builder. I often use things somewhat differently than their manufacturer envisioned. Think freely.

I have yet to install it but for the moto I picked up a Kolpin Sawpress which looks as though it will mount on the CycleRacks just fine. That will make the saw even easier to use with the moto.

That make good sense to get the weight close to your back. I am going to look into some kind of press for my bike as well. I realized I didn't have any photos of my pack, so took some this morning, heading up the hill. I am also attaching some gratuitous photos of my project this morning, rebuilding a bridge. This same method of building dirt toped bridge could be used for moto trails (this is for mtb but could support a Harley) to span a small washout, or be used in a large swamp by using cedar rounds (sleepers) laid on the ground, perpendicular to the stringers, joining the sections together. If I'm jacking this thread now....Sorry

 

[250ccforme]

Nice work!
With my saw in the pack like yours is I found it was hitting my helmet a LOT.

And continuing the thread jack:
Time lapse of a two day build of an overpass to make a trail intersection safer, http://vimeo.com/15725810

 

[McNutt]

Nice work!
With my saw in the pack like yours is I found it was hitting my helmet a LOT.

And continuing the thread jack:
Time lapse of a two day build of an overpass to make a trail intersection safer, http://vimeo.com/15725810

Cool, must be a busy intersection. Were pretty lucky to have cedar to use on the coast. We had a lot of wet snow a couple weeks ago. That with some winds brought down lots of trees that have provided lots of building material, which I used for the bridge.

 

[250ccforme]

On the trail the guy runs down, riders are heading for a road gap; best to not distract them. I ride the over trail but stay away from the road gap.
We've got some (enough) cedar that we can find some for stringers/slats where it's best to use cedar. We get enough wind events that there is always some laying around.

 

[Aflica]

check out Echo Saws
we have a Echo 14" we use for trail work
5 year comercial use warranty and a great saw and can handle almost anything you will come across up 28 inches that is lol

 

[250ccforme]

I've mentioned the Echo top handle to the MTB club as a possible successor for when their Stihl wears out. Very similar saw for less $$.
28"? Why limit yourself? Given enough time, fuel, sharp chain and kahunas one could gnaw through anything!!