Doohickey chapter 11847

[Yak_KLR650]

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klrman wrote:

:dr:Aerospace machinist in Kamloops

Now there's words you don't see together a whole bunch! How busy can this guy be in Kamloops? Let me know when he wants to test some big a$$ forks on my bike!

 

[klrman]

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Chris at the Kawasaki Dealership in Kamloops told me about him. He said he has many contracts right now, but when it slows down, he is always up to machining more t-clamps. Don't think he would do any freebies though

 

[Flyfisher]

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I did the doo a 7600Km, doohickey was in good shape, was a little warped and marked from the bolt, the spring was a 40mm and had no stretch left. Maybe could have done one more adjustment, but doubt it.

Bike is way quieter, this is not myimagination. Now I don't worry about it.

 

[masonjarz]

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I, too, am going to "do the doo" shortly.

A Kawi mechanic told me that in his opinion, most of the problems with the part are due to overtightening by unkowing shops, owners, etc.

I follow the adjustment procedure from this great website (most of you are probably already aware of it):

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/

 

[Flyfisher]

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How does the mechanic account for all the spring failures.

I use 69" lbs for the case bolts and found this torque worked well for me. I got this torque value from Multisuface Motorcycling.com. Elden Carl is the KLR Guru, this site is a good site also if you haven't found it. Torque the rotor nut as pointed out by Mark, this method is the one used in the manual.

Punching the woodruff key really helps in putting the rotor back on. Be careful you don't have to hit the punch hard, just enough to mark the key. When putting the rotor back on spin the starting gear slowly while pushing on the rotor and you will feel it engage.This was a big concern when I did the job, but it is really easy.

Becareful when you remove the starting gear that engages with the starting ring, that pin or shaft for it will fly out, trust me. The gear that engages with thestarter pinion is a solid piece, don't have to be as careful.

When popping the generator cover leave theall the case bolts about 1/4 of the way in. This will help in saving the gasket. There is a bit of magnetic attraction on the gererator cover so when you pop the cover the bolts will help you keep the cover in place. Then you will be able tocarefully work the gasket lose.

When you pop the inside case, put your thumb on the shaft that holds the doohickey when pulling the cover. This shaft can pull out and drop the washer that is behind it.

Best advise I can give is if you want to save the gaskets have new ones or Murphy will prevail.

 

[masonjarz]

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Good point (about the springs)!

I'm not arguing the position, I was just passing on what the guy said.

 

[Propfrwrd]

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I've been thinking about doing it/getting it done, but live in a condo with limited space. I've got the wrench, but need the puller and parts. What's the est. time to do it vs. the cost of taking it in to Burnaby Kawi? Is it worth it to get it done???

 

[Guest]

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Propfrwrd wrote:

I've been thinking about doing it/getting it done, but live in a condo with limited space. I've got the wrench, but need the puller and parts. What's the est. time to do it vs. the cost of taking it in to Burnaby Kawi? Is it worth it to get it done???

Eaglemike sells the lever and spring, he can be found easily over at www.klr650.net

He sells a kit to that has the goofy bent wrench you need if you prefer to buy it all.

The first one i did took me about 3 hours to do, as i double checked everything to be sure i had it all back together correctly.

Now having done several it takes about 1.5 hours or just under to do the DOO.

Its an easy job, and IMO worht having done....if the spring breaks and circulated thru your motor its going to be a really shitty day for you.



I know you are a long ways away, but we are having a tech day June 21, 08 in kamloops, if you feel up to a long ride come to the loops and I will do it for you, just buy the lever and springs ahead of time and bring them along.

Generally the lever comes with 2 springs, and you can decide if you need the longer or shorter one when you go to reassemble it.

Personally i would use the short one to be sure it never runs out of tension, but thats just me. :hb:

 

[Propfrwrd]

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ChanceIt wrote:

Propfrwrd wrote:

I've been thinking about doing it/getting it done, but live in a condo with limited space. I've got the wrench, but need the puller and parts. What's the est. time to do it vs. the cost of taking it in to Burnaby Kawi? Is it worth it to get it done???

Eaglemike sells the lever and spring, he can be found easily over at http://www.klr650.net

He sells a kit to that has the goofy bent wrench you need if you prefer to buy it all.

The first one i did took me about 3 hours to do, as i double checked everything to be sure i had it all back together correctly.

Now having done several it takes about 1.5 hours or just under to do the DOO.

Its an easy job, and IMO worht having done....if the spring breaks and circulated thru your motor its going to be a really s***ty day for you.



I know you are a long ways away, but we are having a tech day June 21, 08 in kamloops, if you feel up to a long ride come to the loops and I will do it for you, just buy the lever and springs ahead of time and bring them along.

Generally the lever comes with 2 springs, and you can decide if you need the longer or shorter one when you go to reassemble it.

Personally i would use the short one to be sure it never runs out of tension, but thats just me. :hb:

Thanks for the advice and offer, Chance!

I am certainly sold that it needs to be done, my big question was time investment vs. just getting it done, say at Burnaby Kawi. I'm fairly handy, and learn pretty quick, but my tools are limited to the doo-hickey tool and decent socket set. I'm not sure what Burnaby Kawi or aback-yard guywould charge vs. the time it takes to get it done meeself.

A tech day sounds good.... I'll have to check with the boss and see if I'm allowed out to the Loops on June 21!

 

[MTR SPORTS]

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Hey Propfrwrd;

We have the doohicky parts & tools in stock.

Coquitlam. If need be I use a licensced mechanic in PoCo

Robert 604.838.4733 [email protected] 1.866.547.0911

 

[Yak_KLR650]

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Robert
Do you have the new torsion spring for the doohickey?

 

[MTR SPORTS]

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Hi Yak;

No new torsion springs & only 1 older style left in stock.

New supply should be here in June.

 

[MTR SPORTS]

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Hi Yak;

No new torsion springs & only 1 older style left in stock.

New supply should be here in June.

 

[MTR SPORTS]

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Hi Yak;

No new torsion springs & only 1 older style left in stock.

New supply should be here in June.

 

[Guest]

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Hey Yak,



I hear a rumor that MTR will be getting a new shipment of spring in around June.



If by June 21, you can come swap it at our tech day here in da Loops.



I may try and get Joker to do a tire for me that day.:dr:

 

[Erronous Monk]

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I'm presently in Toronto, and just rolled over 37,000 km, can anyone recommend a Southern Ontario KLR shop to adjust the valves? I still have another 15 to 20 km to go before getting back to BC and if anyone has any personal favorite dealer out here it would be nice to get a heads up.

Oh, this is for a 2008 machine, and I have not done the doo.

 

[CB450EK1 HELLCAT]

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Yes...the doohick is a very bad design, and the 2008 is not really improved. As a number of members have noted the balancer tensioner shaft is LOOSE in the factory part. The balance roller flaps around like 2 bears mating. I have installed the aftermarket part on my 2002, and my buddies' 2005. Both bikes now have clear rearview mirrors from 400 to 4400 rpm and are very quiet at idle. A major difference. I have seen one engine fragged at West Bike, and the rider from Duncan went down when it happened. The engine just trashed itself internally when the adjuster broke. My spring was so weak it never did move the adjuster from new. My buddies' the same.

 

[Guest]

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I found the 2008 to be improved, it just runs out of spring tension eventually is all.

The lever is for sure stronger, and unlikely to break.

But at say 5,000 to 10,000 kms you may run out of tension, and need a shorter spring......so its a $5 fix. and easy to do.

I did mine, and never changed the lever, just the spring.