First Oil Thread of 2020

[tomcycle]

Yes its January 2020, lots of cold weather and Snow. We need an updated oil thread

We all have our favorites (Oil) and why we use them, so why not let us all in on you secrets? Lots of new people here that have lots of questions but are afraid to ask, here would be a good place for them to find all sorts of local information, some of it might even be good. What and why we use the oil that we love. Motul, Yamalube, Rotella, Maxima, how about grades? What about Synthetic, Semi or Full Dino oil?

Go ahead and post what are you waiting for?

For you Facebook People you can go back to the DualSportBC group and post there if you so choose here is the link
https://www.facebook.com/groups/dual...age_group_post

 

[twisted-hog]

10/50 Motul or Bel-Ray full syn at the moment for the 450 and 990.
Whichever I can find cheaper on the internet which seems to be Bel-Ray for the last few purchases.

 

[bkoz]

Hook, line and sinker tomcycle.

I am currently running Rotella 15w-40 in my KTM 250EXCF. I am not a Rotella fanboy. When I worked on diesel gensets the oil samples when running Rotella was nothing special. But it's CHEEP. You can grab a pail form Ukrainian Wheel or Peavey Mart for under $70 when on sale. I change oil often with Rotella, ~7hrs. That works out to under $4 an oil change.

I don't not run Rotella in my DR650 as the transmission is garbage. I have driven Massery Ferguson tractors with smoother transmissions. Rotella would shear out and the trans would be hard to shift @ around 1600kms. I also had to replace the DR trans because of gear flaking @ 22,000kms. In the DR I run whatever 20w50 or 20w60 I can get on sale. 20wXX oils will have a higher viscosity base stock which, in theory, means I can stretch the next tranny rebuild to 50,000kms.

 

[tomcycle]

I thought I would have to get this started but you guys are on it



From my old truck driving days and working for Stu Braddick (of payless auto parts and drag racing) so many years ago (like +35). He convinced me all those years ago that I should run Diesel grade oil in my vehicles. at that time I owned a 1980 Toyota 4x4 PU (and I bought it new) and a 1982 Goldwing Interstate. So from that date forward I have run Delo or Rotella Dino oil in my cars and street bikes. Never has a problem related to oil.

In the 90s I bought a 92 DR650 and was convinced that I should be running Motorcycle Specific Oil. So I changed to Maxima Synthetic Blend. I did blow up the Drs motor in Baja just outside of Todos Santos, It was no the oil but an obvious failure of the K&N air filter.

In the meantime I moved to Rotella T6 Full Synthetic for everything else I own, mostly because of the Motor-home with the Cummins 8.3 Turbo Diesel. I continued to use Maxima Full Synthetic with my off road dual sports.

A couple of years ago my Husqvarna TE 310 had a major engine failure, the bike had well over 300 hours on it. Bill from 5th gear got the engine and tore it down, he did not lay blame on any one thing but he did say that everything in the TEs engine was warn out, he emphasized EVERYTHING. So this was during the BMW KTM ownership change and parts became a problem. So International had a new 2013 TE310 available. I really liked the 310 so I bought it while waiting for my old 310 to get the parts it needed to be repaired.

Of course lots of discussion was to be had on why my old 310 engine failed, and there where lots of reasons but nothing definitive. Sylvain convinced me that I should be using Rotella T6 in my new bike, using the argument that the T6 has the JASO-MA Rating for Japanese motorcycle engines. So I checked out the internet and was convinced that if that oil was good enough for my big motor home engine is should work great on my little motorcycle engine.

So since 2015 I have been using Rotella T6 5W 40 in everything I own. Husqvarna TE450, TE310. Triumph Tiger 955i Sprint ST, Tiger. Dodge 1500 4.7 V8, Mercedes ML320, Saturn 2.2L and of course the Motor home Cummins 8.3 Have yet to have any oil related problems.

In conclusion I only buy pails of Rotella T6 Full Synthetic usually from Canadian Brake Parts (CBS Parts) or when it goes on sale

 

[filterwrench]

I,m running full synthetic in my motorcycles Motul or Moterex which ever the best deal at the time. Diesel engine oil in everything else I,m sure that a high grade diesel engine oil would be just as good in the motorcycles you just have to be careful if your bike has a wet slipper clutch not to use an oil with friction additives in it as they will effect the performance of your clutch.

 

[sylvain]

It look the pail of T6 is different than the jug?
Pail is 15w40
Jug is 5w40

Or maybe its only Can. Tire who does have it all???

For the DR650 shitty trany...
I had problem in my 2 Beta 2010 and 2012, when running the Rotella T 15w40 (non Synthetic)
From Idle it was shifting on gear by itself, from time to time.

Never happened with the T6 5w40

Oh god, I like forums and those many oil thread.... Not something you can enjoy on FB

 

[bkoz]

It look the pail of T6 is different than the jug?
Pail is 15w40
Jug is 5w40

Or maybe its only Can. Tire who does have it all???

For the DR650 shitty trany...
I had problem in my 2 Beta 2010 and 2012, when running the Rotella T 15w40 (non Synthetic)
From Idle it was shifting on gear by itself, from time to time.

Never happened with the T6 5w40

Oh god, I like forums and those many oil thread.... Not something you can enjoy on FB

Both types of Rotella can be bought in a pail.

My DR hated Rotella T6. Shifting went from agricultural to horse and carriage at about 1100-1200kms. It just has too low of a viscosity to handle the shearing in that crappy transmission.

I have seen multiple T6 5w-40 oil sample results from motorcycles and they all sheared out really quickly. The base stock's viscosity is just too low.

I think it would be a great winter oil. For summer I would like something a little tougher.

 

[PistonSlap]

Great point to remember. From filterwrench.
if you have wet clutch bike like old design in some of the Honda’s separate engine and
gear box...do not use engine oils with friction modifiers or moly,
tranny does not like. So I do like having an hour Meter...help prevent guessing.
also I really like mixing the potion for 2 cycle !!!
For us we choose to follow manufactures suggestions
In respect to viscosity. For maintenance intervals,
that seems to be subjective...

 

[TW_rider]

I thought I would have to get this started but you guys are on it



Of course lots of discussion was to be had on why my old 310 engine failed, and there where lots of reasons but nothing definitive. Sylvain convinced me that I should be using Rotella T6 in my new bike, using the argument that the T6 has the JASO-MA Rating for Japanese motorcycle engines. So I checked out the internet and was convinced that if that oil was good enough for my big motor home engine is should work great on my little motorcycle engine.

So since 2015 I have been using Rotella T6 5W 40 in everything I own. Husqvarna TE450, TE310. Triumph Tiger 955i Sprint ST, Tiger. Dodge 1500 4.7 V8, Mercedes ML320, Saturn 2.2L and of course the Motor home Cummins 8.3 Have yet to have any oil related problems.

In conclusion I only buy pails of Rotella T6 Full Synthetic usually from Canadian Brake Parts (CBS Parts) or when it goes on sale

I tried Rotella T6 in several of my bikes but didn't like the effects; the valve-train on the TW became unbearable to listen to...the DR shifted funny....XT225 was as noisy as the TW (porbably because they share the same engine)...and I tried it in several of my vehicles.
It was the ONLY stuff I used in my old Powerstroke...but I had read that the zinc levels "could be" detrimental to catalytic converters in my other vehicle (Suzuki XL7). I still use it in every small engine (lawnmower, generator,etc) I own but that's it...I got away from diesels last year, so I don't need to buy it anymore.

For the bike,,,I only use Mobil 4T because of the great results I've had with it so far. I've eve tried AMSOIL, but found that it too makes the valves noisier and the transmission notchier.

So use the best oil there is on the market: Mobil 4T...

 

[Rustic]

I'll throw a monkey wrench in here regarding oil, specifically Mineral or dino vs. Syn.

Background; My father was the Master Blender (The guy who runs a refinery) for (when he retired) Petro Canada, PC was formerly Gulf and BA OILS. I work in the resource industry and deal with a ton of guys way smarter than us in Crude Fractions (oil, Gas, diesel (oil), NG, propane etc).

What is the difference and why was synthetic oil developed? Extreme Heat & Cold that's the reason, not better average lubricity that's what additives do. You see synthetic oil is less susceptible to shear, the breaking down of the oil when stressed. Synthetic does not protect or lubricate better than traditional until..... it gets stressed and old. Thats why we have longer maintenance periods now in vehicles that specify synthetic.
Back to those additives they improve lubricity, adherence to metal between start ups etc. Guess what they are added to both traditional and synthetic.

Moral of this little story is unless you are racing or are apt to neglect your oil changes; use the oil specified for your bike and change it religiously or even more frequently than suggested. Using conventional oil you will save dollars and be putting a closer eye on your beast more frequently to catch issues.

100,000 plus miles on my 92 DR650 and the motor is still strong. Got my truck in an add with ford when my 1986 Ford Ranger clocked over 1,000,000 km's; then my brother drove it from Logan Lake to Merrit daily for a few years and then some local lady drove it another few years. Conventional oil and religious maintenance.

My 2 pennies. Now back to MC SHow planning.

 

[LordEndo]

When I was at the KTM event at Silverstar I had an oil discussion with one of the Katoom mechanics. His assessment was that Rotella T6 is the best choice if you're changing oil often. Expensive stuff (i.e. Motul) if you're not going to be religious on frequency. Myself - I've tried both, probably a mental thing but I felt like the bike ran better on the Motul. Lately I've switched to Maxima full synthetic. I stick to the 15w50 that's spec'd by the Austrian overlords.

 

[tomcycle]

I'll throw a monkey wrench in here regarding oil, specifically Mineral or dino vs. Syn.

Background; My father was the Master Blender (The guy who runs a refinery) for (when he retired) Petro Canada, PC was formerly Gulf and BA OILS. I work in the resource industry and deal with a ton of guys way smarter than us in Crude Fractions (oil, Gas, diesel (oil), NG, propane etc).

What is the difference and why was synthetic oil developed? Extreme Heat & Cold that's the reason, not better average lubricity that's what additives do. You see synthetic oil is less susceptible to shear, the breaking down of the oil when stressed. Synthetic does not protect or lubricate better than traditional until..... it gets stressed and old. Thats why we have longer maintenance periods now in vehicles that specify synthetic.
Back to those additives they improve lubricity, adherence to metal between start ups etc. Guess what they are added to both traditional and synthetic.

Moral of this little story is unless you are racing or are apt to neglect your oil changes; use the oil specified for your bike and change it religiously or even more frequently than suggested. Using conventional oil you will save dollars and be putting a closer eye on your beast more frequently to catch issues.

100,000 plus miles on my 92 DR650 and the motor is still strong. Got my truck in an add with ford when my 1986 Ford Ranger clocked over 1,000,000 km's; then my brother drove it from Logan Lake to Merrit daily for a few years and then some local lady drove it another few years. Conventional oil and religious maintenance.

My 2 pennies. Now back to MC SHow planning.

Gulf oil B/A only a handful of people will remember these logos

 

[gt750]

My advice is to do some research on the various grades of synthetic oil, of which there are three. The worst kind,is hydrocracked. The oil refiners got upset when they were sued for calling a conventional oil synthetic oil! Needless to say, they won and now call hydrocracked oil a synthetic oil. That would be your 100% synthetic oil, that doesn't list any ingredients! Second best synthetics contain "polyolefins". I'm not a Chemist or Engineer, but in Trade School we were taught about how these oils can change their viscosity in hot or cold weather. They are able to flow better in very cold temperatures, as well as maintain a film on plain bearing in very high heat/load situations. Best synthetic oils are Ester Based. Most Companies that put the cost and effort in to use Esters tell you about it. There is a definite advantage to using Ester based oils in extreme conditions.
The biggest issue is to select an oil to be able to handle the load you subject your engine to. Nowadays, that may well be the cheapest conventional oil you can find. But, it is very hard to tell how well an oil works in your particular engine. Also, as has been mentioned, the additive package does wear out, which is why new oil is needed.
A motorcycle mechanic once recommended 15W40 diesel oil in 1985 to me. At the time probably good advice. Now, poor advice. These engines have such different needs, that you aren't doing your engine any favors using Rotella!!! In fact, you are better off using Conventional over Synthetic Rotella.
A good website to check out is: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Make sure to scroll down to see the ratings on oils tested.

 

[gt750]

Gulf oil B/A only a handful of people will remember these logos

I love that "GULF" logo!
I remember when the "Phillips 66" guy, in a white uniform, would ask my Dad if he wanted his windows washed, or tires checked.

 

[Bipolar]

I have always been a proponent of frequent oil changes in all my vehicles. My KLR650 has just over 5000 KM
on it and it has three oil changes. I always make sure the oil is changed before storing my bikes for winter and
then after the first ride in spring I replace the oil again. I use the oil that the manufacturer recommends.
The brand what ever Canadian Tire or Walmart has on sale.

Terry

 

[rgmr250]

I have a 2013 TE310R. Ridden almost exclusively at Blue Mountain (McNutt). I (currently) live 10 minutes from the trails, so makes sense to me, rather than a off-road only bike. I use Rotella T6 (5w40 I think?) in it as well. Only difference seems that when it's cold there's a bit of clutch grab (clutch in, in gear, and still wants to roll ahead a bit), but that goes away once warm. I change the oil every 300km and change the filter every 2nd oil change. I use Rotella T5 in all the other bikes (Goldwing, KLR650, Concours currently)

 

[lagbc]

Ready to do some oil changes.

 

[02drz400]

A lot of information to digest. Been using maxima blend 10/40 recommended at dealer. My question is regarding filters. If not allowed in oil thread I will feel shame and go home!
Does anyone buy the OE filters from the dealer? They are something like $25 for my Wr250r while the tusk one from gnarly parts is less than $6. Any reason not to buy the cheap ones?

 

[lagbc]

I personally use only HiFlo oil filters. Have seen many shops use them and haven't heard anything bad about them.

 

[DualEngineer]

Frequent changes are the most important aspect imho.
Then comes oil type and synthetic is hands down superior apparently.
Personally I use Amazonbasics synthetic oil.
I tried it for my main bike after reading some great reviews.
My babe runs as smooth as ever. And at 20$ less than my usual Pennzoil Ultra Platinum... it's kind of a no-brainer really.