How can I bench test my clutch?

[burnt03]

I got the new parts in the mail, started putting it back together. I have no idea how it's supposed to work, so hopefully someone will be able to help me out here...

Here was one of the problems, new pushrod #1 is on top, the entire welded assembly below. Can see the old pushrod #1 is a fair bit shorter.

I put it back together...

And adjusted it as per the manual...

Now when I actuate the clutch push lever, I can't see much if any movement of the clutch basket... normal??

I thought maybe I'd try to test it by putting it into gear, disengaging the clutch and seeing if that cut power to the drive sprocket. It doesn't. Does it need to be running or....

ANYWAYS, bottom line. Is there anyway to test the clutch before I put the engine back in the bike?

Thanks again!

 

[tomcycle]

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I'm probably not much help but......

Was the clutch working before you took it apart? other than slipping

That push-rod goes through the center of the transmission (many bikes) and when disengaging the clutch your should see the plates separate, although very little. The transmission should turn freely from the engine, if you did not do the clutch basket you might have some drag.

Looking at the photos the old rod may be two pieces, that through lots of use look like they are welded. You will need that entire length to disengage the clutch. If it feels like its working wrong it probably is wrong.

Go to http://www.bikebandit.com and you should be able to find the schematic of your clutch assembly

What engine you got there?

Keep trying you will get it eventually


Tom

 

[burnt03]

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No, the clutch wasn't working prior to taking it apart.

The clutch pushrod is 3 pieces, 2 pushrods and a ball bearing. All replaced with new. The clutch actuator was also pretty gouged, it was changed out as well.

So you're saying the transmission should be turning free of the engine whether it's running or not..... could the clutch plates be too worn down? (I didn't change them out)

 

[Loz]

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Hey Burnt,

At the center of the clutch pressure plate is a screw and locknut. Back it off and then with the nut loose, tighten the screw untill you feel it tighten up.

At this point you have removed all free play from the pusrod assembly back to the actuator lever. Now back the screw off by about 1 turn and holding the screw still, tighten the locknut. The actuator arm should move freely a little before you feel it try to separate the clutch plates.

The clutch pressure plate should now move outward by around 1/8" when you operate the clutch actuator fully.

If you see this then all is well and you can finish your re-build. Once the motor is back in the bike test the feel of the clutch and remeber that there are two ways to adjust the clutch (the cable and the pushrod).

Adjust the cable first and ensure that there is a little free play (1/16") in the cable.

With the motor not running, put the bike in gear and push it forward with the clutch engaged. the motor should turn or try to.

Now pull the clutch lever in and the bike should push freely. If not you can adjust the screw and locknut by taking out some of the free play, but not all.

The free play on the push rod is important to stop the ball welding itself to the pushrod and ending up like the one you just replaced.

All of this assumes you have the right number of clutch plates; just a thought

 

[burnt03]

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Loz,

Thanks for the reply, very helpful! The manual says to adjust so the point lines up with the mark on the case, but I imagine that's probably for brand new clutch plates so I'll give it a try!

And I'll double check the clutch plates, although I think I've got the right number

Thanks again