KLR Subframe mod

[Darren klr]

Hi

I have been reading a few internet posts and scared into doing the subframe modification.I am a big guy and plan on carrying cargo on my tailrack ,so I think it would be a good idea.

I have found a kit at Dual Star ,but it just appears to be hardware store parts. Does anyone know the correct size/grade of bolt I should use, and where I could get it ? I live in Port Moody and I have all the tools necessary.

Thanks

 

[rawstewage]

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Burnaby Kawasaki has the Sub Frame Upgrade Bolts for $8.95

 

[IanB]

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rawstewage wrote:

Burnaby Kawasaki has the Sub Frame Upgrade Bolts for $8.95

Just to point out, the Dual starkit isn't just the nuts and bolts. The frame has to be drilled out quite accurately at the top joint and the kit comes with a special jig and the right size drill bit to do this properly.:tup:

IanB:hb:

 

[Poco Red]

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Darren you can get the bolt kit from Dual Star as well. I got the complete kit and have the drills and bushings which are of good quality. The long larger drill for drilling through is from a very good quality US manufacturer! If you just get the bolt kit you are welcome to come over and do it and my warehouse. It only took an hour to an hour and a half to do KLR Rob's!

 

[sail_lots]

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Don’t ask why I ended up with 2 Dual Star Sub Frame up grade kits (I’m losing my memory)





I have one extra I will let go for $45.00



If any one is interested

 

[Darren klr]

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Thanks for the offer Poco red. I have a shop with all the tools to do the job at home . I am off work tomorrow and will take a ride into Bby Kawy to see what they have for a bolt kit. Maybe I'll pick up a Doohickey kit too. My warranty is up in May.

Thanks again for the help guys !!

 

[Roaddane]

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It's just my opinion, but unless you carry heavy weights on the back of the bike,the basic bolt upgrade kit is sufficient. I also carry the original oem bolts with me as an insurance policy just incase an upgrade bolt fails on the road.



Paul

 

[Darren klr]

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Thanks for the advice Paul. I went into Bby Kawasaki and decided on the 10 mm through bolt. Great guys there, they even lent me the drill bit alignment tool.I thought I would be better off with this upgrade, I plan on carrying some cargo,I'm 6'3"and lets just say that when I get on a scale 275 is still blurry when it goes by.

Nuff said

Thanks again, Darren

 

[CrazyD2.0]

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I'm 6'3"and lets just say that when I get on a scale 275 is still blurry when it goes by ...

I'm not laughing at ya Darren, just with you - that was a hilarious statement! :tup:

I'mwondering about how important thisupgrade is - I'm 6'4", 190 lbs (maybe 205 fully geared up), and will likely not go so far as to jump/wheelie my bike. Obviously if there wasn't a problem, there wouldn't be an upgrade kit, but under what conditions are the bikes being subjected to that necesitates replacing the bolts? Are there any riders out there that have not done this upgrade and have had no problems?

 

[FixerDave]

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CrazyD2.0 wrote:

Are there any riders out there that have not done this upgrade and have had no problems?

I've never done it, and I'm riding a '90. I weigh 165lb, not including gear, and I always carry my pack, 10-20lb, on the deck. I've also gone camping with way too much gear, and a girlfriend.

I've only notice the bolts loose once, and that was after a nasty (really nasty) hit during the Mystery Creek dualsport. Basically, I was flying down this nice sunny road, heading for a tree-covered section (with my 10lb pack on the carrier). I noticed a guy, coming from the other direction, standing in front of his truck looking at a wash. I was slowing down a bit, maybe to 50k, when my eyes adjusted to the shade and I noticed there were 2 washes, one right in front of me. 8' across, maybe 2-4' deep, nasty large boulders in the bottom. I had just enough time to aim for a slightly rounded edge on the far side, and I hit hard. Bottomed both front and rear suspension (hard) and slammed my thick aluminium skidplate into the far bank hard enough to noticably bend it in around the frame tubes. I made it through, somehow, then through the next wash (slowly). I rode past the guy standing in front of his truck just like nothing happened, and carried on. I suspect the guy driving the truck thought I was nuts.

Anyway, the point of this story is to show that the stock bolts can handle a lot. I think the issue is that they vibrate loose while people are doing long trips. Once loose, they are much more vulnerable to sheering with a load on the carrier. I doubt hard riding, including jumps, will cause any problem with stock bolts, so long as you check to keep them tight. On the other hand, if you're going to tour with hardbags full of gear, then maybe it might be a good idea.

Hope this helps,

David...

--------------------
http://bikerdave.blogspot.com

 

[Norm]

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The five or six KLRs I've helped with sub-frame upgrades all had Loctite on the original bolts which were tight. At least two were tight enough to make me have to shift my grip to really pull to break the bond.

If these bolts are tight, they are in shear so I doubt that any problems would be experienced in touring regardless of weight carried. Impact strain on the other hand would apply far greater tension force to the bolts and may exceed the yield point of the bolt(s). Once the yield point is exceeded the bolt's stretch will reduce clamping force and allow impact to increase until the bolt either fails in stretch yield, shear or bending.

None of the KLRs I am aware of have had a sub-frame bolt failure and IMO it doesn't necessarily follow that the bolt kits are sold because they are needed. It seems more likely that the kits are available because there is a market for them which is not the same thing at all.

That said I upgraded mine and recommend others who wonder about the need to modify go ahead with the mod because it is inexpensive and not difficult.

Previous posts have noted that there are two upgrades. Mine has the higher strength bolts of original diameter which is an easy install. I have helped with three upgrades (HT if memory serves) which use a larger top bolt which is much more of a challenge to drill and install. Given the choice I would use the larger size bikt kit.

Anyone without considerable experience in drilling may find the drilling of the frame and sub-frame holes to be a challenge as there can be some difficulty in keeping the drill bit from binding because the sub-frame moves a bit. One drill bit was broken when doing the last pair of KLRs which might have been a problem except that the guys doing the drilling had two kits available.

The HT kit appears to be good quality and well thought out as it includes drill pilots.

The guys who seem to break these bolts ride very hard off road which I guess makes me a granny as I never managed to break mine. (VBG)

Use a torque wrench and consider re-tightening these bolts periodically.

Norm

 

[klrman]

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Just a note on drilling. After jacking up my bike, I used 2 plastic wedges between the
top sub frame and airbox to 100% align the holes. This way when I drilled through
it became perfectly clean and tight. I know some people had made sloppy drill
throughs and it is not a good feeling if the fit is not tight.

 

[edzzed]

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here is a good reason for the upgrade. I now have a kit on order. Ed

 

[klrman]

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I often ride 2 up with my wife and hit the trails hard, so I could see that bolt snapping on my KLR if I didn't do the upgrade.

 

[Jeckyll]

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The manual rates the capacity at 375 lbs from what I recall.

But that didn't stop me from doing the full upgrade. Sometimes it's about piece of mind, especially when you load 'er up and go off on your own

That was at least 70 lbs of gear, but it's also all the way back on the subframe, i.e. long lever.

I'm only around 190, but man if I was 270 I'd be all over the upgrade right off the bat

 

[edzzed]

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I'm only 185 and carry no gear except a 120 lb wife albeit rarely. She has a bad back. Ed