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Stalling
- Thread starter Proudman
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bulkley mouse
New member
Hey there....have you completed any recent work to the carb? How bout old gas?? Carb cleaning possibly needed?
Proudman
Been known to fly
I haven't touched the carb. I had been driving around on my second tank of gas this season and had just filled up again when it started stalling.
I guess I'll be learning how to clean a carb. I'm building a house and shop but for now I hope the motel owner is OK with me working on the bike in the parking lot.
I guess I'll be learning how to clean a carb. I'm building a house and shop but for now I hope the motel owner is OK with me working on the bike in the parking lot.
kenf
New member
Sounds like it runs okay if you keep the throttle on, just stalls at idle? It may sound stupid, but have you tried just adjusting the idle? My buddies KTM had the linkage to the idle screw work itself loose in the middle of a ride a couple of weeks ago, every time he chopped the throttle the bike would die. Would not idle at all. We thought it was something serious but it turned out to be as simple as just messing around with the idle set screw for a few minutes.
kenf
New member
I'm lazy, and a big fan of easy fixes when they work. With a stable full of kids' and wife's bikes, generators and other gas powered stuff that sits idle over the winter, spring time tends to be a nuisance for me getting them all running again. I've repeatedly come close to tearing down carbs only to fortunately always find a simpler solution. Most times just draining the tank and floats, replacing with fresh premium, and occasionally a bit of one of the various "carb/injector cleaner/fuel stabilizer/etc" additives that cost a few bucks at Cdn Tire. Twice that didn't work, and both times it turned out to be weak spark due to old/corroded spark plugs. $2 fix for the generator, $15 fix for the sport bike, in both cases the stalling problem vanished instantly. Plugs are probably easier to change than tearing down the carb, you might want to try that as well!
Good luck
KF
Good luck
KF
Proudman
Been known to fly
Just put in a new plug maybe 100 km ago. Adjusted the idle. I had to adjust often while I rode. One funny thing I noticed was that when I started from cold, as I backed the choke off the RPMs increased. It has always slowed the revs down before. Will be checking out the float and bowl next. Should I be taking the whole carb off at this point or can I get away with just taking the bowl off? Remember, I'm working in a motel parking lot. Also I have not been able to locate a fuel filter, either on the bike or in the parts catalogue.
rawstewage
New member
The KLR (at least my pre-08) doesn't have a in-line fuel filter.
Is it possible you have a bad tank of gas? You could try Seafoam (carb cleaner/gas additive)?
See this thread:
http://www.dualsportbc.com/forums/s...y-but-runs-fine-in-the-city&highlight=seafoam
Worth a try if you are working in a motel parking lot.
Is it possible you have a bad tank of gas? You could try Seafoam (carb cleaner/gas additive)?
See this thread:
http://www.dualsportbc.com/forums/s...y-but-runs-fine-in-the-city&highlight=seafoam
Worth a try if you are working in a motel parking lot.
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My diag routine for rough or no idle is as follows
#1 Confirm fuel condition and flow make sure there is new fresh fuel (not the fuel sitting in a can in the garage for a year) by pass fuel petcock as it has a vac valve in it run the fuel from a clean container right into the carb (gravity feed)
#2 Confirm proper idle screw setting if you turn up the screw too much it will cause the idle port / idle circuit not to function
#3 Check for vacuum leaks with carb or brake clean around intake rubber and vac ports
#4 Richen up the induction mixture with propane or acetylene to confirm it will idle smoothly if it does not you have valve or ignition fault.
The KLR is set very lean from factory to meet emission standards so it does not take much to upset the idle air/fuel mixture use this advice at your own risk/reward
#1 Confirm fuel condition and flow make sure there is new fresh fuel (not the fuel sitting in a can in the garage for a year) by pass fuel petcock as it has a vac valve in it run the fuel from a clean container right into the carb (gravity feed)
#2 Confirm proper idle screw setting if you turn up the screw too much it will cause the idle port / idle circuit not to function
#3 Check for vacuum leaks with carb or brake clean around intake rubber and vac ports
#4 Richen up the induction mixture with propane or acetylene to confirm it will idle smoothly if it does not you have valve or ignition fault.
The KLR is set very lean from factory to meet emission standards so it does not take much to upset the idle air/fuel mixture use this advice at your own risk/reward
islandswede
Member
Had a similar problem with my 03. Turned out to be a faulty petcock assembly. To check this use vortexman's #1 method.
The petcock has two filters (screens) and a vacuum valve. The vacuum valve went bad on mine, hole in the diaphragm. You can convert it to manual by removing the diaphragm and spring and bolt it together with a piece of gasket material in lieu of the diaphragm. Then just cap the vacuum tube to the carb and tank. (Also makes it great for getting some unleaded for your camp stove when needed.)
Alternatively you can buy a new petcock assembly for about 60 bucks or the diaphragm and spring for around ten.
Good luck.
The petcock has two filters (screens) and a vacuum valve. The vacuum valve went bad on mine, hole in the diaphragm. You can convert it to manual by removing the diaphragm and spring and bolt it together with a piece of gasket material in lieu of the diaphragm. Then just cap the vacuum tube to the carb and tank. (Also makes it great for getting some unleaded for your camp stove when needed.)
Alternatively you can buy a new petcock assembly for about 60 bucks or the diaphragm and spring for around ten.
Good luck.
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