uncorking the drz-s?

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rz5mark

Guest
I would like to get a better punch out of the bottom end of the drz for hoping over stuff at low speed... I dont wan't a bunch of noise either. I see most jet kits advertise a 5% hp gain.... on a 30hp bike.....big deal! I don't want to do cams or exhaust. What about this JD jet kit with the 3by3 mod and the inner baffle cut out? I want to set the jetting and forget the jetting. I have 2 buddies with drz's and they may make more power but they have drivability issues compared to a stocker
Does anyone know if the the E and the S share the same transmision? Is the final drive the only diff? 14\47 would feel way more punchy than 15/44...What's peoples opinions on 13 and 14 tooth front sprockets for off road?
What's a comfortable cruising speed on a drz-s with stock gearing? I feel like I'm abusing the bike over 110kmh the way it revs, but I rode a dr650 for 5 years commuting.....
 

snackdaddy

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Look over @ thumpertalk.com



My experience....jet it/open the airbox/gear it down.



The pipe does add lots of power too. (I have the full yosh system) If you can find a used drz eexaust systemwill have modest power increase with not too much more noise.
 

04klr

Well-known member
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the "S", and the "E" are different animals. Thr E has a pumper carb, compaired to the CV street carb, the S has a thicker (extra?) base gasket, different cams, gearing I'm guessing is the same., I, for trails run 13/45 on my klx (dirt) great bottom end, tops out approx. 125k. for your street model go ahead and punch out the pipe, open the airbox, be prepared to play with jetting and maybe you'll get that which you seek, but whadda I know, I'm an electrician. ;}
 
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Garrett

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Probably the least expensive way to achieve low end grunt is to gear it down and open up the airbox and re-jet. The re-jet won't give it noticeable power, but will improve throttle response. The addition of afree flowing pipe and re-jet will improve top end and if you gear it down you may get what you seek.

It really depends on where/what/how you ride. Single track? Gear it wayyy down. Highway? Gear it like an S

It's relatively inexpensive to fiddle with gearing and you can switch it back if you don't like it. I HAD an SM. Then I did a big bore kit, FCR, Hot cams, and after market pipe. Improvements across the spectrum,but I find I still want to gear it down beyond the "S" gearing I have now. More fun in the trails that way.

Garrett

(I have a used JD Jet kit for sale if you're interested)\
 

mint400

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top cruising speed on stock 400s 15 44 is about 120K I've found it tops out at 150k or so...

best mods:
3x3 mod and yoshi exhaust

and for off road:
14 / 47 gearing (13 will increase chain wear and failures)
$$$ bore kit to 450
$$$ injection carb with 3x3



My plan is 15 /47 with 3x3 mod... I will wait till stock hardware is well used or requires replacement for other mods ...

As an observation, the 400s is not a "great" highway bike or city bike... especially if you set it up for trails... it is however "good" at all three
 
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Garrett

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I'm not convinced I would do a big bore kit again to a DRZ. 3X3 and an open exhaust system works well. Mayyyybe I'd do an FCR if I found a good deal. I like my SM for the street and the trails. I've ridden it hard on both and it does the trick for me.

In my opinion, a BB kit is not needed for trail use as you are mostly in 2 or third and not using the HP. Extra torque can be achieved by gearing it down. It was a fun project and the bike runs well and goes good but I'm not convinced it was REALLY worth the money I spent.

That said though, I did beat the pants off a KTM 690 E on this hill climb in between Gray Creek and Kimberly. GAWD that was fun. :D

Garrett
 

Cedartree

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Running a 13 tooth front sprocket wears out the chain slipper on the swingarm pretty quick, and you lose top speed, maybe a bit harder on the chain, too.

I did the 3X3 mod and installed the JD jet kit with the recommended main, 155 I think for sea level.Pilot was 25 I think. Needle clip at the third position. My mufffler was already uncorked when i got the bike, with the arrestor screen still intact, didn't change anything there.Didn't notice more power but throttle response was noticeably improved, which helps get the front wheel up and over obstacles.

Idle still hangs a little if the weather is cool, but I could probably get that correctedby fiddling with the air screw, its just a bit tricky to get at, asI cheaped out and didn't get the $20 adjusting screw.
 

malachi

Member
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I replaced my 15tfront sprocket to 13t at 1200kms. My 13-44 setup went over 20k with no issues to the front sprocket, slider, or the chain wearing quicker at all. At 24k I replaced the chain/sprockets with the E model setup, 14-47. I just hope I get the same distanceout of this chain/sprocket setup:tup:
 
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franhoser

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it's called "chordal action". You are too low in gearing. May need to go to 14T.
 
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