Winter Storage Tips

klrman

New member
That time has come where I need to park my KLR for the Winter. This is our busy Season and I don't really get to ride it anymore.
The manual says to empty the gas in the gas tank and put some motor oil in and let it roll around to coat the interior of the tank.... this sounds a little crude if you ask me and can't imagine the carburetor is going to like it in the spring, no matter how much I try and wash the oil away. Anyone have a better idea? Someone told me fuel stabilizers did not go well in his KLR and made his bike run haywire for quite some time after he started in Spring. From what I read, the KLR tanks rust inside pretty easy. The only thing I can think of at the moment is to drain the carb and I don't really have any other ideas. It will be kept in my garage which is heated so that is a good start.
 

Island Hopper

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For storage: you should change your oil, up your tire pressures or better yet block it up so both wheels are off the ground, you could try spraying fogging oil into the carb through the airbox till the engine stalls {gives a protective coating to the valves}, but I find just a couple spoons of motor oil in the spark plug hole and rolling the engine over a couple of times is enough, store with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke {valves closed}, I stored my KLR a couple of times with a near full tank of stabilized fuel and had no problems upon startup, pull the battery and give it a periodic shot on the charger or better yet hook it to a battery tender for the term, wipe down exterior surfaces that may be prone to rust with a protective type spray {fluid film} and give your chain a good lubing. Or you could move to the island and ride all year round so you don't have to go through this.
 

okmike

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For the past couple of seasons here in Kelowna, I've done the same with my KLR as IslandHopper describes: fill the gas tank, add some fuel stabilizer, pull the battery and store the bike on the motorcycle/atv jack with the wheels off the ground. Haven't experienced any startup problems (yet).
 

RoscoeP

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I take the stabilizer to the gas station for my last fill up of the season. Put it in first then gas and by the time you drive home it should be through your whole fuel system(carb or fuel injection etc.) Some people drain the carb.
My neighbour left his tank empty last year(Yamaha Virago) bad move, tank rusted over the winter.:X
 

joker650

Active member
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Don't store it. Once or twice a month take it out for a rip in the snow:dr:
 

Norm

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If you don't have a battery tender or other "smart" bike battery charger a small amperage (2 to 4 amp) can be made to suit. A great tip from a friend on the Prairies is to connect your charger to the light socket on your power garage door opener. The light sequence will run your charger for 5 minutes or so (whatever you have it set) when the door is cycled.

Some recommend charging the battery and sealing it in plastic wrap, then placing the battery in the deep freeze for the winter. Yes, and it works! The idea is that the battery will not freeze because it is charged so the electrolyte's freezing point is somewhere below minus 60 Celcius. The problem with storing a battery without periodically charging is that the battery will self-discharge (go dead on its own) over time. If the battery is allowed to remain dead or even partially discharged for an extended period of time, the plates will sulphate and the sulphation will not allow the affected area to recharge.

Storing the battery at very low temperatures reduces the chemical activity so that the battery does not self-discharge.

A friend stored his boat,bike & ATV batteries in the freezer over the winter and snowmobile batteries ditto over the summer.

It's always fun to post this information because of the fertilizer storm it always starts. (VBG) Amazing how many people know so much without any training or experience. (LOL)



Norm

P.S. I didn't read how long the KLR is expected to be in storage, storage environment, etc. Don't store it in the basement next to the furnace!
 

Randaroo

Member
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Q. Why not in the basement next to the furnace?

Everything here is "farm fix", so...I've dumped my bikes either in the barn, sort of dry over the winters, or just parked them in the basement. Usualy a charge up and bath in spring then away we go. my trials bike lives in a barn and never gets any TLC, starts and runs every time...well maybe, 1977 TY250, my snowmobile lives in the bush till winter when we collectivly pour over it till it starts, farm fix.

Good idea to fill the tank and add stabiliser, condensation and that new toy that grabs your attention befor you re-discover the old war horse in the pile of boxes and christmas decorations, a few years later you'll wish you had done something with the fuel. 4-6 months, no big deal, 2-3 years you'll be wondering who killed the skunk in the basement and learn all about chipping green ice burgs from float bowls and how brass jets seem to disolve. In a realy dry place some oil in the combustion chamber could ward off the first dry fire tragidy, never heard of it myself but makes sense.

Changing the filter/oil is a good idea so the particulates don't settle into the bottom and the water to the top while your puppy sleeps. Spring fire up wouldn't be too healthy.

Tires too, in dry storage no problem, out back under the porch with a tarp over it...they will be the least of your problems.

Awww shudup, a little diligence will save some real grief down the road.
 

Norm

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>Q. Why not in the basement next to the furnace?


I've agonized over whether this question was serious or not....

In my years repairing outboards, it was simply amazing how many people did just that:-in the basement next to the furnace. Other than the obvious fire risk due to fuel near the pilot light, the warmer temperature at which the engine is stored, the more rapid the oxidation of any fuel which is exposed to air. Hydro-carbons which oxidize tend to form lacquers, gums and varnishes which can be really difficult to dissolve from a carburetor. Many times the carburetor is simply not salvageable from and economic stand-point.

Some long term storage advocates recommend plugging the carburetor vent and inlet to reduce oxidation of the fuel in the bowl. My best success has been to use fuel stabilizer and drain the carburetor every month or so when storing for several months. Outboard motor manufacturers recommend the use of a fogging spray to reduce corrosion in the engine duringperiods of storage.

Other concerns related to long term storage:

1) corrosion/rusting of the muffler which can be reduced by use of fogging or anti-rust sprays. Some like to run a two stroke oil in the fuel for a short time rpior to shut down to coat the exhaust system. I like fogging spray better but that's your call.
2) Moisture combined with fuel/ash deposits can create rust and other corrosion in the combusiton chamber.

3) Ozone (particularly in a warmenvironment)attacks rubber parts. This can be reduced by use of a protective coating such as wax. Hoses, rubber gaskets around instruments andgrommets are examples of potentially affected components.

The degree of risk/prevention involved depends on many factors but temperature andhumidity are always accelerators of deterioration.



HIH

Norm
 
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sneakybc

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Why not keep it in the garage and fire it up every month!
 

klrman

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Hey, thanks for all the info. I learned many things I never knew before. I thought about firing it up once every 2 weeks or so too, but that won't stop the fuel from gumming up the carb would it? Do any of you leave the stabilizer in and still fire it up occasionaly and take it for a ride? Riding in the snow sounds fun too! I never used stabilizer before but I used to store my bikes years ago for 6 months and never had problems. I just keep reading about how the fuel gumms up the carb so I felt I needed to do more than just keep it in a warm garage.
 
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klr jason

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The only (last) 2 cents I have is this. Fill the tank, but make sure you drain the carb. It's easy as pie to do, and it'll be one l;ast thing to slow you down when the sun comes back out.I've found even with stabilizer in it won'tcompletely stop the gumming.Don't ask how I know this.

Air up the tires, and go sit and have a beer with it once in a while. They get lonely, and if you forget to tell them how much you love them, then come summer, you'll be SOL.

Was that the recipe for a happy bike, or a girlfriend?



Oh well, the bike will never leave me!:spl:
 

04klr

Well-known member
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blah blah winter storage, put it away, hey! here's a novel idea, leave the plate on the bike and ride it all year, no gummed carbatooter, no flat tires, add heated grips/vest and GIT ER DONE! and I thought you army guys were tough. ;}
 

klrman

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That is what I was looking for..THANKS! I will drain the carb. Maybe next year I will be able to ride it most of the year. I don't know what happened to me as I used to be an all year rider and now when it gets cold, I keep the bike parked and polish it... does that mean I am already an old fart? She is parked at my brothers house now, but I visited her yesterday and I still get that rush of excitement everytime I see her. That KLR really makes me feel happy.
 
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klr jason

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Hey, mines still on the road!:p

But I do live in Van/Sooke, so the weather isn't anywhere near as snowy and slippery as the Arm. I don't think I'd want to try and ride up there.:shoot:



Just remember, we don't stop riding because we get old, we get old because we stop riding!
 
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