Xt225 rear shock adjustment question.

BCP

Member
So I've been doing a bunch of reading on how to adjust the preload on my rear shock. 1 7/8" is the maximum I've seen. And I'm clued in on how to do it, but when trying to free up the lock nut using the BFH & screwdriver method I'm grooving the locknut, and putting a pipe on my c wrench only bent the wrench. Can I spray it with some penetrating lubricant to help break it free, or will this be a bad idea for keeping it all done up? I'm trying to not buy a new TTR225 shock unit for it, but this wallowy ride is totally killing my buzz.
 

Shuswap

Member
I'd use just a little bit of penetrating spray, let soak and then shoot it again. Aluminum shock or nut combos get a little too familiar with one another through surface/dissimilar corrosion and neglect by use hose-users.

My bro got a little impatient with the pre-load nut on his '09 EXC300 and it cost him 1,200 smackers for a new shock. I use a punch that is sized for the object I'm clobbering, too small, as in a screwdriver, can do a fair bit of unnecessary damage and a BFH is asking for trouble!! But I think tha's what I used too........
 
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BCP

Member
Well, a quick update on the shock. I ended up going to Canadian Tire & buying a pin punch for $9. I gave the locknut a squirt with some Releasall and then a good whack with the punch, loosened right up. I used the punch to adjust the preload on the spring with the unit still in the bike, it was very easy to do. Adjusted it up to max preload, and then tightened up the locknut & set it with the punch. The bike now has about 1"-1.5" of sag when I sit on it and feels a lot tighter. I'm going to play wih the rebound setting over the next few rides to get it set just right. But initial impression is very good, especially coupled wih the oversize foot pegs I put on the other day.
Next step is to take care of the front shocks, I've got a set of progressive rate springs on order, new fork seals, and will put in some heavier oil. Hopefully that will take care of the mushy/diving front end.
 

Shuswap

Member
Fresh fork oil goes a long way to improving fork action, especially when its been ignored for too long by the likes of me.
Larger footpegs are pretty much the first thing I buy for any bike with small/stock pegs....what a difference they can make to stand-up riding!
 

woofer2609

New member
I'm going to play wih the rebound setting over the next few rides to get it set just right. But initial impression is very good, especially coupled wih the oversize foot pegs I put on the other day.
Next step is to take care of the front shocks, I've got a set of progressive rate springs on order, new fork seals, and will put in some heavier oil. Hopefully that will take care of the mushy/diving front end.
Looking down from the top of the bike, turning the rebound adjuster knob CCW will speed up rebound and make the bike feel "harder". This is good for heavy loads, 2-up rides, and if you are jumping cross ditches (not highly recommended). For smaller bump compliance and on tight technical stuff, having it set toward the softest, or turned full CW and then backed off a few clicks, seems to work well. I actually find the rear shock to be pretty good on this bike, for what it is.:tup: I remember this by telling myself "It's HARD to go BACKWARDSin time" (ie. turning it counter clockwise will make the rebound harder.
Now, the front fork...:censored:
Well, I did see somewhere someone tapped the steel top caps to accept threaded schraeder valves to inflate and increase the preload. Curious as to how the springs work out for you
 

woofer2609

New member
BCP, I'm curious as to how you feel the Serow compares to the Sherpa.
Serow, interesting name of choice. When you look at the animal, it does kinda resemble the bike; not to fast, small, agile, goes anywhere.
 

BCP

Member
Looking down from the top of the bike, turning the rebound adjuster knob CCW will speed up rebound and make the bike feel "harder". This is good for heavy loads, 2-up rides, and if you are jumping cross ditches (not highly recommended). For smaller bump compliance and on tight technical stuff, having it set toward the softest, or turned full CW and then backed off a few clicks, seems to work well. I actually find the rear shock to be pretty good on this bike, for what it is.:tup: I remember this by telling myself "It's HARD to go BACKWARDSin time" (ie. turning it counter clockwise will make the rebound harder.
Now, the front fork...:censored:
Well, I did see somewhere someone tapped the steel top caps to accept threaded schraeder valves to inflate and increase the preload. Curious as to how the springs work out for you

Thanks for the tips on the rebound, I'm going to be playing with it a bit over the next few days, but first I've got to delve into the carb and give it a clean, the bike started to bog out on my last ride.
I'm hoping to get the springs in over next weekend, so I'll report back once they're in. I'm sure that ANYTHING would be an improvement over the forks set up right now.
 

BCP

Member
BCP, I'm curious as to how you feel the Serow compares to the Sherpa.
Serow, interesting name of choice. When you look at the animal, it does kinda resemble the bike; not to fast, small, agile, goes anywhere.
The Serow feels a bit lighter and more nimble, possibly a better dirtbike. The Sherpa felt a bit more solid and of a better build quality. They are both fantastic little bikes, and I'd be happy owning/riding either bike.
 

BCP

Member
Well, new front shock springs are in, and WOW, what an improvement. With the old stock springs it felt like it was bottoming out if I even just brushed the front brake lever. Now it feels smooth and confidence inspiring on rough tracks at speed. What a great upgrade.
 

LordEndo

Member
Staff member
Too bad you didn't do some valving while you were in there - makes a huge difference in trail compliance.
 

BCP

Member
I was looking at the emulators, but couldn't quite stretch to them this round. Still, way happier now.
 
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